By Mira W.
Today, at Vanity Teen, we have the pleasure of speaking with the talented fashion designer Domenico Orefice, a proud alumnus of Polimoda. Domenico has made significant waves in the fashion world, and his latest collection, “LUMEN,” unveiled during Milan Men’s Fashion Week, marked a significative runway debut. Known for embodying warmth and approachability in an industry often defined by competition, Domenico’s ambition knows no bounds.
Since launching his first official collection in 2022, he has named each of his collections after the various technical difficulty levels of climbing, with “LUMEN” symbolizing the arrival at the summit—the achievement and the light at the end of the climb. ”LUMEN” is a reflection of progress, resilience, and the fulfillment that comes with reaching one’s goals. Domenico’s work has been showcased on international stages, from Mados infekcija in Vilnius, Latvia, to Pitti Uomo in Florence, and Dubai Fashion Week in the UAE, not to mention the esteemed Italian Embassy in Athens. With a distinctive high-tech Metaverse aesthetic woven into sportswear tailoring, Domenico Orefice’s designs are as innovative as they are wearable.
With LUMEN, Domenico Orefice maker a significant mark on the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana calendar, showcasing an evolution from exaggerated forms to intentional silhouettes, combining the sophistication of Italian savoir-faire with innovative materials. The collection features unique upcycled leathers in collaboration with Demiurgo, along with the introduction of shearling, new leather bags, and footwear—all crafted in Italy. The palette remains true to the brand’s roots with classic tones of beige and black, now complemented by fresh accents of green and light blue. Collaborations with design studio Douze Degrés and J’Adore Napoli expand the thematic universe of LUMEN, intertwining the realms of fashion, art, and design.
Domenico Orefice is a guiding light in the labyrinth of contemporary fashion today, reflecting a commitment to excellence rooted in Italian craftsmanship and a forward-thinking approach. Operating from his atelier in Florence, his vision reaches even wider horizons, and we’re excited to explore deeper the story behind “LUMEN” and what lies ahead for this rising star in fashion.
Hello Domenico, welcome to Vanity Teen. Your Autumn/Winter 2026 collection, LUMEN, showcased during Milan Fashion Week Men’s at Fondazione Sozzani, marks a key turning point for you as a statement, rather than a debut. A statement that is entering into a more conscious dimension. Can you explain how “LUMEN” marks a significant turning point in your design philosophy? In what ways does this collection reflect a departure from your previous work, and how do you see it as an evolution rather than a break from the past?
“LUMEN” is not a restart, and it’s not a debut. It’s a moment of awareness.
This collection represents a turning point because it comes from a place of clarity rather than urgency. In my earlier work, there was a strong instinctual energy, almost a need to define myself through form and experimentation. With “LUMEN,” that energy is still present, but it’s more controlled, more intentional.
The conscious dimension you mention is about responsibility: toward the garments, the bodies that wear them, and the context they exist in. I didn’t abandon my past language; I refined it. Modular construction, duality, and tension are still central, but now they are guided by restraint and precision. It’s an evolution where I trust silence as much as structure.
Fondazione Sozzani has been described as a pivotal platform for the new generation of Italian fashion. How does presenting your collection in this particular space influence its narrative, and what do you believe is the importance of context in fashion presentations?
Fondazione Sozzani is not just a venue; it’s a cultural statement. Presenting there adds depth and credibility to the narrative because it’s a space that values research, photography, and independent voices.
Context is fundamental in fashion. A collection doesn’t exist in isolation, it reacts to the room, the audience, the history of the space. Fondazione Sozzani allowed “LUMEN” to be read not as spectacle, but as reflection. It framed the collection as a dialogue with culture rather than a performance for consumption.
The imagery of light as a guiding element is central to your collection. How did you develop this theme, and how does it resonate with contemporary cultural contexts, particularly within club culture and urban fashion?
Light, for me, is both physical and symbolic. “LUMEN” was born from observing nightlife and club spaces, places where darkness isn’t absence, but possibility. Light becomes a guide, a signal, sometimes even a form of protection.
In contemporary culture, especially within urban and club contexts, light defines identity: strobes, reflections, metallic surfaces, sudden visibility. I wanted to translate that sensation into fabric and construction, materials that react, surfaces that shift, garments that reveal and conceal depending on movement. It mirrors how we navigate today’s world: constantly adapting, illuminated in fragments.
The interplay between masculine and feminine elements is a notable aspect of your design approach. How do you navigate the balance between these gender expressions in “LUMEN,” and what insights do you hope to convey about contemporary identity through this dialogue?
I don’t approach masculinity and femininity as opposites. In “LUMEN,” they coexist in the same gesture. Structure meets fluidity, protection meets exposure.
The balance comes from construction rather than symbolism: tailoring softened by elastic elements, rigid fabrics paired with sheer or tactile ones. This dialogue reflects contemporary identity, which is no longer fixed or performative. It’s layered, personal, and often contradictory. I want the wearer to define the garment, not the other way around.
Your collection introduces new materials while staying true to the brand’s identity. Can you discuss the innovative techniques employed, particularly in upcycling leather and integrating shearling? How do these materials contribute to your vision of sustainability in fashion?
Innovation for me starts from respect for material. In this collection, upcycled leather was reworked to emphasize texture and imperfection, turning previous lives of the material into visible value. Shearling was integrated not as luxury decoration, but as a functional, emotional layer, something that offers warmth and intimacy.
Sustainability isn’t an aesthetic choice; it’s a design discipline. Working in pre-order, limiting waste, and rethinking materials forces me to design better. These techniques help the collection feel grounded, honest, and durable, both physically and conceptually.
Your work is deeply rooted in the cultural fabric of Italy, especially regarding its connections to urban culture and music. How do collaborations, like with J’Adore Napoli and the accessory designs, enrich your brand’s narrative? What role do you think such collaborations play in the broader context of fashion identity?
Italy, especially the south, is deeply embedded in my work. Collaborations like the one with J’Adore Napoli are not branding exercises; they are cultural exchanges. Music, street language, and accessories become carriers of memory and attitude.
Accessories play a crucial role because they are often the most personal elements of a look. Through collaboration, the brand narrative expands without losing its core. In a broader sense, collaborations allow fashion to remain porous, to absorb real life instead of isolating itself.
As you described “LUMEN” as a collection of maturity, what aspirations do you have for its impact on both the fashion industry and your personal design career? How do you envision the future of your brand, particularly in communicating with a global audience while remaining authentic to your Italian roots?
“LUMEN” represents maturity because it accepts time. My aspiration is not to chase relevance, but to build consistency. I hope this collection speaks to an industry that is slowly rediscovering value over volume. For my personal journey, it’s about confidence, trusting my voice enough to slow down. Looking forward, I want the brand to communicate globally while staying rooted in Italian culture, craftsmanship, and urban reality. Authenticity, for me, comes from knowing where you come from and not needing to explain it too loudly.
A short note to your future self.
Don’t rush clarity. Protect your curiosity.
DOMENICO OREFICE FALL-WINTER 26/27
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