London Fashion Week marks a reset in the fashion cycle. A take on digital sets a new way for designers and brands to showcase their collections in different ways. It also embarks a new change in regards to the fashion system, be it in terms of sustainability and consumer-collection interaction. It is on hard and uncertain times such as the ones imposed by the pandemic lockdown when some of the best things come, as Daniel W. Fletcher (I.G. @danielwfletcher) Fall-Winter 20 collection proves it, taking the hurdles of the pandemic by creating a youthful, sustainable and beautifully crafted collection.
Start Me Up Collection
Remembrances from growing up and working in modern Britain were the inspiration behind the Start Me Up FW ’20 collection, such as the charms coat which was inspired by the traditional Donkey Jacket. For the designer clothes have no gender (”A shirt is a shirt, a jacket is a jacket”.), hence the collection is gender-neutral.
“it’s about freedom of expression, gender, sexuality and the overriding message on discovering identity.”Daniel W. Fletcher press release
The current panorama also made the designer gave serious thought about some aspects of his eponymous label be it on terms of the importance of the great DWF Team behind it and sustainability. Lockdown implied manufacturing challenges (e.g. factories closure), having to directly work late-night with the seamstresses via Zoom along coordinating the sending of fabrics and patterns to their homes.
”Now, I feel this collection is a testament to the skill and hard work of these amazing women: I dedicate this collection to them.” Daniel W. Fletcher
Craftmanship is characteristic of the designer’s collections, with the shortage of supplies (due to the pandemic) his trademark was emphasized, enabling him to rethink and reinvent himself by using recycled fabrics and resources around him, with some of the pieces being personally decorated by him.
The collection’s sophistication and stylishness are accentuated by contrast: the Black and white, blue-white, and pink-black-white range in the collection juxtaposed with contrast stitching on the jockey shirts, jeans, and jackets along with the horse and cap charms in some of the pieces (e.g. shirts, coats, and bandanas) enhances the subtlety of the collection.
As the name of the collection implies it (which is also the name one of the Rolling Stones song): if you start me up I’ll never stop. The hurdles imposed pushed the designer to make one of his greatest collections.
- The collection has been made available for sale on the designer’s new site the same day it was presented on his #LFW slot. The decision was made as a form to adapt to the modern consumer (whereas in the traditional fashion system a collection is available to purchase a few months after its showcase).
- The jockey shirt from the collection was featured on Netflix’s Next In Fashion, where he was one of the two finalists out of eighteen contestants.
- According to the designer’s site, 10% of all the proceeds from the collection will be donated to the Black Lives Matter movement and organizations fighting for racial equality as well as groups that support communities affected by Covid-19.