London Fashion Week FW21 – Day 4

If yesterday we said Carlota Barrera seemed to have become the best ambassador for the new tailoring, the emerging designer Daniel Crabtree, who presents his collection today, could be defined as the best representative of the reinvented British tailoring. His garments, drawn and cut freehand, speak for themselves. And even more in a context that seems to lead creators to bet on symmetry, safe proposals, and the prevalence of the classic conception of fashion. The eight looks presented by the British designer in a 3-minute video combine tradition, legacy, and contemporaneity. Or rather, post-contemporaneity, given the freedom of structures, the exploration of the unions between fabrics, and the brutalist minimalism he proposes in his short film.

Direction: @suzwalsh_
Styling/Creative: @dean_jennings
Production: @slogfilms
Creative Direction: @louisvberry
Director of Photography: @tobyleary
Production Design: @artic_director@hensmana
Hair: @samelliothair
MUA: @esmehorn
Editor: @callum_pearsonn

Chinese pottery inspires the new collection presented by Pronounce. Embryo, the last proposal created by the tandem of designer formed by Yushan Li and Jun Zhou, explores the fragmentation and link of elements in a metaphorical atmosphere that recreates a personal trip to Jingdezhen, China, in a relaxed video in which the models look fearlessly at the camera, letting us enter their inner world. The fragility is opposed to the poses the different characters strike, inspired by sculpture and craftsmanship. Mouldable without renouncing their own personality, they perfectly recreate the feeling shared by all of us in times of pandemic. And it is that although sometimes we feel that we are about to break inside, there will always be a formula with which to resurface like the phoenix.

Jordanluca knows where it wants to go, and is firmly on her way to achieving it. The brand founded by Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto in 2018 abandons the strident color and unnecessary accessories to show us the essence of their creative universe, in which tailoring, patterns, and technique are the real stars. An interesting way to represent the conclusions resulting from lockdown, marked by the questioning of the past, present, and future, in an allegory of the moment we are living right now and its maximum use as a way to achieve what we want. An industrial labyrinth where we are the ones who decide our course and set the pace at which we want to move forward. Dark beings in search of a light that gives them back hope in a turbulent time defined by tragedy and barbarism.

Burberry continues to enjoy physical shows (this time without an audience) in a fashion show that invites us to see a little beyond the stage we are used to as spectators. We follow the models, we are part of the team of videographers and photographers who make the collection a dream come true. Roles are blurred, and the public becomes part of the story that the fashion house communicates to us through fashion, in which historical codes converge with a fresh proposal, and asymmetry and the definitive eradication of gender boundaries are more than evident. A very appealing color range that is committed to a progressive transition towards a new era in the sector, in which the rhythms of fashion are respected, this art is enjoyed again and allows us to tell stories.

It is precisely in the fragility of masculinity that Per Götesson immerses himself, being one of the last designers to unveil his proposal on the fourth day of London Fashion Week. And to do so he leaves the city, where the rapid pace prevents connecting with human emotions, to move to the forest. An individual and personal journey in which the characters themselves travel in memory in a proposal that claims to be based on a series of demi-couture pieces, in which the brand’s previous work is very present. The military inspiration contrasts with the nature that leads the way the model takes. A gloomy environment that is far from the catwalks on which designers’ creations are usually presented, where visual stimuli don’t pay attention to the concept hidden behind the collection. And Götteson’s collection has a lot to say.