ISSEY MIYAKE Spring Summer 2016The ISSEY MIYAKE Collection is founded in the philosophy of clothing made from “a Piece of Cloth,” a concept which explores not only the relationship between the body and clothing, but also the space that is born between them. The philosophy has evolved and grown as have Miyake’s interests always founded in innovative clothing combined with modern research and development.
The Collection made its debut in New York in 1971. Since the Autumn/Winter 1973 collection it has been shown in Paris. The ISSEY MIYAKE Men’s Collection was first presented as a section within Fall/Winter 1976 Women’s Collection; it has been shown as an independent line since 1978.
Issey Miyake becomes a such an iconic brand, how did you create this visionary style?
We have always started from fabrics to create clothes that have never existed before, rather than focusing on fashion or trends. It is this stance that has been passed down from the time of Issey Miyake himself and one that remains unchanging.
Technology has been hugely influential and origami are important on each collection?
For us, (rather than focusing on technology or origami) it is very important to give fabrics a range of functionality through their woven structure, and to study the form and comfort of the clothes that are made from such fabrics.
Issey Miyake is famous for pleats. How did that research inform this?
As part of constant research and development into new types of pleats, we focused on changing the actual process and sought to create new pleats. This approach gave birth to “3D Steam Stretch” and “Baked Stretch,” which we consider as new forms of pleats.
Placing a high value on the collections, how did you add the technology for Issey Miyake?
Each season we focus not on changing existing techniques, but rather continuing the process of evolution. It is important to find a balance between the changing image of each collection and the evolution of technology for each season.
At Issey Miyake The archives play a big role in your collections ? and how do you inject your own DNA?
The archives always inspire us and we also put a lot of effort into advancing a spirit of creation—fun, surprise and innovation, across our entire team. It is very difficult to express how we do it in simple phrase.
How would you describe the style of the ISSEY MIYAKE woman since 2011?
We have created all our collections based on inspirations from the natural world, including flowers, stones, birds, landscapes, lights, forests, winds, and so on. We always keep uppermost in our minds that our collections should not be focused only on the technology side of ISSEY MIYAKE. We hope our inspiration drawn from the gifts of the nature will resonate with people.
You created now the Must-have bags GUSTON bags. How was it created ?
Just as the making clothing in ISSEY MIYAKE had started with a unique idea of “A Piece of Cloth,” we made this bag from “A Piece of Leather.” The fuzzy surface of the leather, normally never outwardly seen, is embellished with graphical prints, giving this reversible leather bag both an impressive visual effect coupled with functionality.
Do you prefer Winter or Summer ?
I personally like summer, but in terms of creation, I like winter. I love developing new materials, and winter is a rewarding season for a person like me because it offers a broader range of choices for creating materials.
How do you transfer high technology to high fashion ?
Naturally functionality such as wearing comfort is essential, and I also seek to create clothes that have emotional appeal to people. We always create our clothes from these points of view.
What is your ultimate goal for ISSEY MIYAKE ?
Although it is not my ultimate goal, I want to continue my endeavors to let as many people as possible come to know the works of ISSEY MIYAKE.
Spring-Summer 2016 Trends Reports at Issey Miyake
Botanical Delights
By experimenting with ingredients, we seek to create clothing with new tastes and forms. A Piece Of Cloth can be steamed or baked and emerge in a newly fresh and delicious texture. Seasoned with spices, colors and shapes appear, inspired by the lush vitality of the tropical jungle – transforming our daily act of dressing into a sensuous and surprising experience.
Fabric Information
Natural materials are combined with technology to create a new fabrication. ‘‘3D Steam Stretch’’, a technique which uses steam heat to shrink thread continues to evolve, thanks to the use of natural materials and ample color variations. There are shirts and jackets that use ultra-thin paper thread made from plant fibers; there are colorful t-shirts that look as if they had been jersey-woven. ISSEY MIYAKE continues its research and development on various materials to create comfortable, lightweight and easy to care for clothing in order to suit the lifestyle of a modern woman.
New Technique
A new type of pleats has been created from a new and innovative process, called ‘‘Baked Stretch’’. With this technique, a special glue is first printed onto the fabric and then baked. The glue expands under the high temperature, thereby molding the pleat into the fabric, permanently pressing the garment and maintaining its form. Just like baking bread inside an oven, the fabric is placed inside a baking machine and the glue expands to create a pleated garment. This season we added prints of colorful curves as a compliment to the fabric to evoke the essence of the tropical flora.
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Yoshiyuki Miyamae ISSEY MIYAKE Designer “Dates To Remember”
1976
Born in Tokyo.
1998
Graduated from Bunka Fashion College.
2001
Joined the Miyake Design Studio and worked with Issey Miyake and Dai Fujiwara on the A-POC project.
2006
Became a member of ISSEY MIYAKE design team.
2011
Appointed official Designer for ISSEY MIYAKE brand.
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