by Mira W.
Since the inception of ZHILYOVA in 2014, Valeria Zhilyova has harnessed her innovative and intimate approach to freedom of expression, curating collections that invite women to embrace their individuality with confidence and strength. Each line crafted by ZHILYOVA transports wearers into a parallel universe, celebrating diverse dimensions of femininity and freedom while drawing inspiration from a global community of dynamic, creative women who challenge traditional norms.
‘’In an unwritten future, all mediums are yours to explore.’’ – Valeria Zhilyova
October marked a necessary moment for ZHILYOVA with the highly anticipated launch of the Zonder collection, following a buzzworthy debut at New York Fashion Week alongside Elena Velez, the brand is poised to blur the lines between lingerie and everyday apparel. Zonder introduces 20 new styles—including sheer trousers, flared skirts, and intricately crafted bodysuits—each designed to evoke a sense of power and empowerment regardless of the setting.
The name “Zonder” is derived from the concept of “sonder,” a term coined by John Koenig in The Dictionary of Obscure Sorrows, which encapsulates the realization that each individual lives a life as intricate and vivid as our own. This idea is complemented by the Dutch meaning of “zonder,” which translates to “without,” reflecting the brand’s commitment to transparency and authenticity. Within the collection, sheer fabrics and layered silhouettes dialogue between vulnerability and strength, exploring the intricate balance of exposure and protection that modern femininity demands. Developed meticulously over nine months, Zonder encompasses approximately 25 SKUs across 20 distinct styles, all crafted from luxurious European fabrics, including fine mesh and sumptuous lace. The collection’s signature fringe detailing symbolizes movement and freedom, appearing on a range of pieces from bras to dresses, embodying the essence of controlled elegance.
We bring you into an enlightening conversation with Valeria Zhilyova, where we’ll explore how femininity empowerment is more than necessary today in contemporary fashion. With styles named Xyla, Arcana, Angeline, and more, each piece in the Zonder collection tells its own story:
What is the significance of the name ‘Zonder’ within the framework of ZHILYOVA’s latest collection, and how do the two distinct interpretations of this term enhance the thematic depth of the entire collection?
Zonder comes from the neologism sonder — the realization that every person lives a life as vivid and complex as your own. This concept has always fascinated me because it holds so much quiet empathy and awareness. But in Dutch, zonder means “without,” which added another layer to the idea. It connects directly to transparency — both in the fabrics we use and in emotional openness. The collection lives in this duality: it’s about stripping away layers, yet understanding how complex and rich each life, each woman, truly is.
In what ways does ZHILYOVA’s Zonder collection reinvent the conventional boundaries between lingerie and ready-to-wear fashion, and what implications does this shift have for current fashion trends?
I’ve never seen lingerie as something separate from fashion — it has always been part of self-expression. With Zonder, we push that further by creating pieces that you can wear both intimately and publicly. The line between lingerie and ready-to-wear disappears; it’s about how women choose to express themselves in any setting. I think this reflects a broader shift — women are no longer dressing for an audience; they’re dressing for their own energy, their own narrative.
Can you describe the key styles presented in the Zonder collection, and how do these specific styles reflect the brand’s vision of what modern femininity entails in today’s societal landscape? *Examine how the individual pieces, with names such as Xyla, Arcana, and Angeline, symbolize various facets of femininity and their connection to themes of empowerment, confidence, and personal identity.
The collection includes about twenty distinct styles — from sheer trousers and structured bodysuits to fringe dresses and bandeaux. Each design carries its own story. Styles like Xyla, Arcana, and Angeline represent different facets of femininity — the calm, the chaos, the mystery. I see modern femininity as layered and ever-changing. These pieces are meant to reflect that — you can style them softly or powerfully, but they’ll always carry confidence and ease.
How does the innovative use of sheer fabrics and layered silhouettes within the Zonder collection serve as a dialogue between vulnerability and empowerment, and what message does this convey to the consumer?
Transparency has always been central to ZHILYOVA, but in Zonder it becomes more symbolic. The sheer fabrics invite you to see through — not just physically, but emotionally. Vulnerability is often seen as fragility, but to me, it’s the opposite. Allowing yourself to be seen, to be understood — that’s power. The layering in this collection represents the complexity of that power — how strength and softness coexist within every woman.
What elements of craftsmanship and emotional resonance are emphasized in the development of the Zonder collection, and how do these aspects contribute to the overall identity and appeal of the line?
Every ZHILYOVA piece starts with emotion, not trend. Craftsmanship is our language for translating that emotion into form. We work with the best European fabrics — fine mesh, lace, and a buttery microfiber that feels like a second skin. There’s something intimate about the way each piece moves and breathes with the body. I want women to feel connected to themselves — elegant, fearless, and aware of their own energy.
What role does the recurring motif of fringe detailing play in the Zonder collection, and how does this design choice enhance the collection’s overarching themes of movement, freedom, and self-expression?
Fringe, to me, represents freedom. It moves with you — it catches the light, it reacts, it never stays still. I love that quality because it’s alive. We used fringe across dresses, shorts, and bras to symbolize movement and playfulness — the kind of energy that’s spontaneous, joyful, and unafraid. It’s a celebration of rhythm and individuality.
In what ways do the stylistic choices made by Artem Vorobiev, coupled with the captivating photography of Natalie Skotnicka, shape the visual storytelling of the Zonder collection, and how does this influence consumer perception and brand identity?
Working with Artem and Natalie felt like creating a universe. Artem understands how to balance strength with softness in styling, and Natalie captures that tension so naturally — the space between vulnerability and control. The visual direction of Zonder isn’t just fashion imagery; it’s emotional storytelling. I think it helps people see ZHILYOVA not only as a brand but as a feeling — something intimate and cinematic at once.
How does the approximate 25 SKUs across 20 distinct styles within the Zonder collection illustrate ZHILYOVA’s approach to inclusivity in fashion, and what does this diversity indicate about current consumer expectations?
We wanted Zonder to feel curated, not excessive. Every piece exists for a reason — they all speak to different moods, different energies. Our clients are diverse, and inclusivity for me isn’t just about sizing; it’s about creating space for different interpretations of femininity. The collection allows women to choose how they want to feel, not how they’re told to look.
What significance does the nine-month timeline for developing the Zonder collection have on the overall creative process in fashion design for ZHILYOVA, and how can this duration impact the quality and thoughtfulness of the final product?
Nine months felt symbolic — like creation itself. It gave us the time to refine, to breathe between ideas, and to evolve the vision naturally. I don’t want to produce collections just to fill seasons. Every detail in Zonder — from the embroidery to the fabric combinations — was tested and reimagined until it truly felt right. That process created a depth you can feel when you touch the garments.
How does the planned launch date of October 22nd, along with the strategy for a staggered rollout of the collection, reflect contemporary trends in fashion retail, and what advantages does this approach offer in terms of audience engagement?
Fashion has changed — people want to experience a story over time, not just a single moment of release. By rolling out the collection in stages, we allow every piece to have its own spotlight. It’s more organic, more human. It reflects how women live — evolving, transitioning, layering. I want each drop to feel like a continuation of a conversation rather than a new announcement.
In what ways does ZHILYOVA’s evolution from a focus solely on lingerie to incorporating ready-to-wear pieces embody a broader shift in consumer expectations and lifestyle choices, particularly among modern women?
I think women today expect authenticity — they don’t want to fit into categories like “lingerie” or “clothing.” They want clothes that adapt to their moods and moments. Our move into ready-to-wear happened naturally, not strategically. It’s about giving women more tools to express themselves through style, while still keeping that intimate connection that defines ZHILYOVA.
What overarching narrative threads connect all pieces within the Zonder collection, and how does this collective storytelling reinforce ZHILYOVA’s message about individuality, empowerment, and the celebration of diverse femininity?
The thread that runs through Zonder is empathy — towards yourself and others. Each piece celebrates the woman who understands her duality: strong yet soft, grounded yet imaginative. The collection tells a story of connection — with your body, with your emotions, and with the world around you. For me, Zonder is a quiet revolution in how we see power — not as control, but as awareness.
A note to your future self.
Remember that the most powerful things are born from honesty. Keep creating from emotion, not expectation. Stay curious, stay human, and never forget why you started — to make women feel seen, understood, and unstoppable.
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