On June 24, designer Louis Gabriel Nouchi presented its Spring-Summer 2022 collection during Paris Fashion Week. His first post-covid show took place in Palais de Tokyo, the legendary spot for Fashion, art, and architecture in Paris. Just like a book, Louis Gabriel wants the brand to gather everyone, open it, read one page or read the whole book. For the first time, women are also modeling the unisex collection.
VT This year you’re one of the only brands to have a show, a physical one, with guests, a stage, and live models, can you tell me why that is important to you?
Because we never do like the rest of the industry. When we decided to open our shop during covid everyone told us not to. Now it is what saved us. We sold more than we ever did before because of this store. Also, the way I conceive a show is totally different than pre-covid, the photos and videos from the show are way more important now in my head, they are apart of the show itself.
VT You collection has a strong sportswear vibe…
Yes, I want you to be able to wash your clothes, the knitwear suits are thought like tracksuits. We don’t want our customers to feel the stitches on their skin, it has to be comfortable and simple.
VT Yes. It is also very Parisian and sensual
We started from this idea of a very intelligent woman very Rive Gauche, to make it something very sensual as you can see this season. We want to show skin but not too much, we want erotism. Some of the clothes have transparence in the shape of our new print, some transparence but never too much.
VT Tell us about those cuts in the clothes.
It is the same idea of sensuality. We offer a glimpse of some specific parts of the body in order to make non erogenous body parts become erogenous. The cut is not showing a nipple, it is purposely showing random body parts. It’s now a signature thing that we do.
VT In 2020, you designed a PSG collection. Do you think it is important for fashion to embrace sports ?
Yes ! But in my opinion, my sportswear has to be Parisian, chic and subtle. Yes it is sportswear but I’ll make it tone on tone.
VT You collaborated with multiple brands, how important are collaborations in fashion ?
Collabs bring an overall aspect to a collection, we join forces to create something we’re all strong at. It opens our mind to other ideas. This season we have PHILEO for the shoes, he came to the shop and we started talking about art and literature and the collaboration quickly started. It’s all vegan leather, apple leather. We also have a collab with Sarah Levy, a friend from Belgium for the headwear this season.
VT While designing do you also think of the women who are gonna wear it ?
Absolutely ! We do exclusively menswear but since women come to our shop pretending to buy for their boyfriends when they are buying for themselves, we now have a unisex approach. It is crazy to see how the same clothes with the same styling and accessories can look different on a girl or a boy.
VT Every one of your collection is inspired by a specific book, this season, you weren’t legally allowed to say the name of the book so the collection is titled “UNAUTHORIZED”. How many books do you read per month ?
I read everyday, its inevitable, 3 or 4 books a month, I also reread a lot.
VT People usually get inspired by music or cinema, but for you its literature.
I had to become aware of why I was doing that, and I realized that when I read I visualise the story in my head. I also always am attracted to the same outsider characters who are passively rebellious. They won’t be violent but they definitely will confront some serious topics. And a lot of times by using the absurd -Kafka being one of my main inspiration.
VT What is your definition of love
Love is compromise, patience and trust.
Interview by Elias Medini (I.G. @ly.as)