The third day of London Fashion Week marks the halfway point of an edition in which menswear (and genderless) proposals seem to prevail over entirely womenswear collections, and in which the designers’ reflections as a result of lockdown and pandemic take the form of experimental garments ranging from drama to experimentation, through intense color and child-inspired prints. On Sunday, all presentations are concentrated between 10 am and midday, being the shortest day in terms of fashion shows. But, far from being a morning lack of talent, the creators who unveil their work today are characterized by their creative maturity, their daring, and their unique personality.
Masha Popova is one of the Young promises of fashion, not only in London but internationally. And her new collection You Make Me Dizzy proves it. Born in Ukraine, based in London and graduated from Central Saint Martins, her debut collection presented in a short video that could perfectly be the trailer for a sci-fi film inspired by a parallel universe, combines post-Soviet inspiration, the elegance that defined the turn of the 20th century and raves aesthetics in the late 90s or early 2000s. A decadence elevated to the category of couture through laborious patterns, psychedelic prints, and structures synonymous with differentiation that, without being strident or tacky, explains why more and more artists opt for the young designer’s creations.
Carlota Barrera is probably the best ambassador of new tailoring, betting on respect for tradition, environmental and social awareness, and absolute innovation. The Spanish designer has established herself as one of the essential names of the new creative generation, projecting her vision of menswear from her refined vision, in a sector that has historically been dominated by the gaze of men. Her new collection, Do I owe you days? explores the queer history, the contrast between the familiar and the unknown, and the boundaries between genres in a slow-paced presentation that invites introspection and critical judgment. “What is essential?”, the designer seems to wonder, as she presents her new garments, which stand out for the attention she pays to detail.
Marques’ Almeida Fall / Winter 2021 collection is a resounding yes. It is what fashion needs, presented in a fresh, renewed way, and in which artistic disciplines are combined favoring creative synergies as a way to overcome the difficult situation that the fashion industry (and the economy as a whole) will go through once the pandemic is over. Portuguese singer and rapper Nenny is the true protagonist of the M’A X NENNY film, in which the Portuguese duo of designers is committed to the expression of young creators, strengthening ties with their community, connecting people, and vindicating the importance of supporting local talent. Already available on their website, the collection incorporates recycled and biodegradable fabrics in which the color worked in a very intelligent way is integrated into the different garments, while the artist sings creating a friendly and cheerful atmosphere.
How to continue exciting for more than twenty years through fashion? Preen by Thorton Bregazzi, the brand founded by Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi in the late 90s, seems to have the answer and presents it to us in their Fall/Winter 2021 collection. They come to the feeling they have experienced during confinement in their new proposal, traveling in their minds because they couldn’t do it physically. A one-minute adventure marked by reconnection with nature, small gestures, and feelings that unite all human beings. And recycled fabrics, of course.