After assisting to the presentation of his latest collection named The Hound during Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid 2022, we had the incredible pleasure of chatting with Aaron Moreno @aaemeerree, founder and creative director of Emeerree Studio @emeerree.studio, who tells us everything about the latest collection, the inspiration behind it, the creative process followed and a lot more. He also told us about his origins in fashion and how the brand was born as well as how important sensuality, eroticism, and unconventional ways of dressing inspired him to create a brand with such breathtaking designs.
Emeerree Studio, a new era of fashion
Vanity Teen. I would like to start this interview by congratulating you on the incredible presentation of your new collection during the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid 2022. That being said, I would love to know more about Aaron Moreno, the designer behind Emeerree Studio. Could you tell me about you and how did your interest and love for fashion begin?
Aaron Moreno. The truth is that I have never been one hundred percent sure about what I wanted to do in life or what I wanted to study. When I finished high school, I decided to move to Madrid to study fashion. It was there, in my first pattern design and dressmaking lessons that I realized that fashion was my thing and that I chose well.
VT. Why did you create your own brand? How was that process and why the name Emeerree?
AM. When I finished my degree, I started working for MANÉMANÉ. During that time, I began to realize that I wanted to launch my own project, and finally, in November 2019 I launched EMEERREE. The name is created by the initials of my surname, Moreno Resino.
VT. Personally, I have to say that your brand is fascinating to me because it has an incredible and really unique aesthetic. ¿How did you find that specific style of designing such unique pieces? Which values or elements would you say your brand is based on?
AM. The brand identity has been developed and defined throughout our various launches. When we launched the brand, we focused on presenting ourselves and presenting our first drop, which was about jeans and T-shirts with this fabric. From that moment, the DNA of the brand has been defined until now. We reinterpret the basic silhouettes and in each collection, we redesign day-to-day clothes like jeans or T-shirts combined with corset elements. We buy all our way fabrics from local stores, factory surplus, faulty fabrics, or from ecological production. We put our faith in sustainable production selling on-demand only. This way, we only produce the necessary pieces and avoid the stock excess.
VT. I see deconstruction in your designs, with the use of wavy silhouettes and a great variety of elements. What is your creative process like when doing a new collection?
AM. I love looking back to my past collections, analyzing the pieces that were already made, how were they made, and thinking about how could I improve them. I think that this is a really important part of my creative process because improving the work that has already been made makes it possible to follow the brand’s original identity. Regarding the starting point of a new collection, it just comes up, there is not a specific pattern. I am constantly thinking about that idea, word, or concept, and depending on the idea I start creating.
VT. As I mentioned at the beginning, you presented your last collection named The Hounds during Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid 2022 in the EGO section. How was this experience? How were you feeling from the creation of the collection until you presented it at this event?
AM. I started working on the concept of the collection in summer, looking for references, fabrics, and creating the moodboard, but I didn’t start creating and sewing until November, the month of the announcement to take part in the fashion week. I decided to apply and I started getting ready for it. It has been an amazing experience, though it is obvious that there is a lot of work to do as I am who does everything, from designing, pattern making, and sewing. I am lucky to have an amazing team by my side that has made this experience even better. I have a really really cool family!
VT. Talking about this collection, we have seen camouflage, reinterpreted uniforms, stunning coats, corsets, and more, using a darker color range compared to your previous launches. What does this collection talk about and what was the creative process of this specific collection?
AM. In this collection, Emeerree starts with the idea of the hound, its surroundings, and its connection with hunting and the natural environment. We capture its aesthetics, the core elements of its story, and the particularities of hunting attire. We started by looking for references to the hound and dog’s clothing. We did a lot of crazy approaches to the idea of the collection, and we even thought of designing pieces for dogs!
VT. Could you give us more details about the reason why you chose the theme of hunting for this collection and how those elements are combined with the essence of the brand? How did you make it possible to combine aggressive elements such as those from the hunting attire with so delicate elements like thongs?
AM. I think that this comes naturally to me as I love pattern making and sewing. I was looking very closely at the details of the hunting attire and its element. I took the elements that were useful to me, those that worked best with what I had in mind, and those that I could translate into a new language. And about the thongs, they are part of Emeerree since the first launch, and I have been improving them in each collection. I already consider them as a part of the brand.
VT: One thing that catches my attention is that many of your designs are genderless and for all body types. How important are diversity, inclusivity, and genderless fashion for you?
AM. I would say that the key point is that I start designing without having gender in mind, I don’t really think about the gender of a piece. Clothing is just clothing, and thinking that they are made of a specific gender is absurd.
VT. Emeerree Studio is also known for its Demon Face Masks and the Heart Thongs. Could you tell me about the creation of these characteristic pieces?
AM. The masks came up for the first time in the collection that I did with Luci @jajajajjjjja_. We created lycra balaclavas with horns inspired by her illustrations. When we did the campaign for the jeans line I wanted to reinterpret that idea with a darker side without losing the identity of the masks we did before. The same thing happened with the Heart Thongs. We have been selling thongs since the first collection, but it was with the E-commerce drop when we used the heart shape as an identifying element of the launching. That’s the reason why all our new pieces have these cut-outs. They are a big sensation now!
VT. All the campaigns that you have launched are really sensual with elevated eroticism that is really stunning. How important is sensuality in your work? Would you say that it is something that inspires you?
AM. Sensuality is just another ingredient in all the work. It is always in my work in any way or another, be it in the aesthetics of the campaign or in the clothes worn by the models. For example, I think that in this collection the clothes spoke for themselves.
VT. This question makes me think about the use of knee-high boots, corsets, tops, and thongs for men, which you present in your collections. Why do you use these elements, usually created for women, on male models? What do you want to transmit?
AM. These elements are part of a way of dressing that we are not used to seeing. A lot of models told us that this was their first time wearing high heels, thongs, and corsets. All of this is in the brand DNA since we started. This is our language.
VT. To conclude, how do you see the future of Emeerree and your future as a designer?
AM. I would like to make a living from the brand, see it grow, and be able to do more ambitious projects. I would love to see my collections internationally outside Spain too.
The Hounds credits: Creative Direction by Aaron Moreno @aaemeerree, styling by, JEL @jel_studio, Charlito @its.charlito, and Lucia Lomas @luci_______, assisted by Lucia García @lalucigarcia, Aicha @aichatrinidad, Ani Merino @animerino, BTS photos by Alejandro @alexgendro and Adri Cuerdo @adri.cuerdo, jewelry by Suot Studio @suotstudio, special thanks to Allianz España @allianz_es, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid @mbfwmadrid, and Pelonio @pelonio.