Loewe SS27: Simply The New Loewe

Marking the house’s 180th anniversary, creative directors Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez redefine Loewe SS27 with effortless cool, pop colors, and sculptural silhouettes.

In the year Loewe celebrates its 180th anniversary, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez deliver a third collection dominated by sculptural volumes, defined geometries, and an explosion of vivid colors. Leaving behind the doubts of their debut, the Spring/Summer 2027 collection centers on the energy of a shared human experience. Presented during Paris Fashion Week at the Château de Vincennes, the duo revolutionized the runway concept by building a massive, two-level circular structure, much like an arena. Gone is the classic frontal catwalk: fashion becomes a collective action where clothes come to life by walking, bending, and inhabiting real space.

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Beyond Provocation: The New Focus on Product

The idea of the old world and the new world coming together

The direction is now confidently set. “The idea of the old world and the new world coming together,“ Hernandez explained backstage before the Loewe SS27 show. While the Jonathan Anderson era often saw wild, conceptual creativity overshadow the garments themselves, today the Proenza Schouler founders are shifting the focus back to the pure product. Their Loewe merges the historic Spanish house’s artisanal mastery with an utterly American, urban, and snappy ease. It’s a wardrobe of sharp pieces built for movement, carrying a relaxed attitude that never feels basic.

Pop Explosions and Unexpected Volumes

Bold, hyper-saturated color dominates the scene. A prime example of this sporty, irreverent attitude is the relaxed-fit electric blue windbreaker, unexpectedly paired with a striped shirt, a tie, and white micro-shorts. Loewe SS27 conceptual inspiration translates into sharp geometric shapes: short, voluminous balloon skirts are constructed with the visual precision of stacked sheets of paper, available in both crisp white and warm shades like camel. These mini-sculptures literally bloom, offering a perfect contrast to masculine plaid blazers and dark knit tops.

Seamless Leather and Statement Details

The true masterpiece unfolds in leather, the house’s material of choice, not only for Loewe SS27. For this season, the duo dialed down the high-tech displays of craftsmanship in favor of quiet, razor-sharp finishing, making the seams literally vanish. One iconic look features a smooth, structured, flared black minidress paired with a camel jacket lined in vibrant orange, casually slipping off the shoulders for an “effortless chic” effect. Standout details play on contrasts: the severity of a deconstructed black coat is suddenly broken by a glossy, plasticized collar in warm shades of orange and red.

Late Summer Vibes and Tactile Illusions for Loewe SS27

Balancing the utility aesthetic is a wave of fluid, deconstructed romance. Semi-sheer slip dresses in a bright, delicate blue, finished with frayed hems, peek out from under rigorous, minimal black coats. Textures become experimental: McCollough and Hernandez enlisted a former Loewe Craft Prize finalist to create sheer striped dresses and shirts made of glass beads. The result is a stunning optical illusion that mimics the look of wet beach towels, a perfect nod to the Spanish summer imagery.

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The new Loewe has officially stopped trying to be weird at all costs; abandoning over-the-top conceptual provocations, it now focuses entirely on a wardrobe that wants to be worn, genuinely lived in, and, inevitably, deeply desired.

Giulia Calbi