By Raquel Fernand
From smoke and shadows, an armed Neanderthal emerges. Is she from I Am Mother, the Hilary Swank bionic warrior film? This designer knows how to “mother” a new wave of primitive chic, symbolizing a primal era while exploring the bond between humans and objects. Grace Ling’s SS25 collection, Neanderthal, marks a fresh evolution, placing her alongside icons shaping New York’s fashion landscape, like Peter Do, Dion Lee, and Khaite. She is birthing a new era where raw power and sleek minimalism coexist.
A Singaporean CFDA interim member and alumna of Central Saint Martins, Parsons, and NET-A-PORTER’s member of The Vanguard Collective, the designer showcases her signature chrome details, sharp tailoring, and sculptural knitwear. This collection draws upon the intrinsic bond between humans and objects, emerging on the runway in a mix of ready-to-wear and couture. Her earthly designs, scorched, torn, and windswept, reflect a modern romance with a dark twist. It’s a continuation of her research on surrealist metal sculptures, anthropomorphism, and the relationship between humans, objects, and nature within the metropolis. One thing is for sure: she is here to ascend—strong, bold, and ready to make her mark.
Industrial Edge Meets Primal Power
The undone, torn white blazer and miniskirt, paired with metallic Dagger Bags, offer a functional yet fashionable design that screams industrial edge. Sexy and reminiscent of someone “Fresh Out.. of the Jungle,” she wraps herself in a dramatic Black Liquid coat, ready to swipe her metro card in an almost show-it-all, no-panties look. Very New York—where practicality meets sharpness.
It’s as if the designer is taking us back to the bold confidence of Posh Beckham during the mid-2000s, amid Rihanna’s Umbrella haircut era. I recall watching a NYC nightlife documentary from that time—women going “au naturel” underneath tight bodycon dresses to avoid visible panty lines, an aura fully alive in her vision.
This fearless approach continues to resonate through her designs. With Look 3, we see a reclamation of the bold, liberated energy from the Y2K era, elevating what was once considered “tacky” into a unique form of elegance. It’s a nod to the post-2008 economic crash, where the fashion pendulum swung toward basics and functionality after years of superlative logos and excess. Ling taps into the inverse psychology of that movement, subverting past notions of tackiness and transforming them into prêt-à-couture pieces.
Fast forward to her défilé, where that raw energy comes alive in the wires and fabrics—or the lack thereof. The Claw Bralette? The Claw Mini Short? Check. Fun? Absolutely. The persistence of metal in her designs suggests she graduated from Alan Crocetti’s or Hugo Kreit’s academy with honors.
Accessories with Attitude: Bags with Pronouns
The accessories are nothing short of statements. Sleek yet ergonomic, they balance form and function, with options ranging from matte black to shiny metallics. These bags are designed for functionality yet stylish enough to serve as an accessory slash weapon of self-defense.
Debuting on the runway is the Grace Ling x Humane HANDAXE BAG, designed in collaboration with Humane. Inspired by the first tools crafted by our Stone Age ancestors, it blends primal simplicity with a snazzy twist.
But oh wait? Excuse me? Did I just see a crow as a styling prop? Not what you’d want to encounter in Meatpacking at 9 p.m.
The metallic rose strap—delicate yet fierce—features its own ID, a nod to the dying rose emoji: the Wilted Rose Bag. The gender fluidity of the pieces injects playful yet bold energy into the collection. Grace Ling’s vision is fluid, fun, and ready for anything. A male model rocked said bag as a top because, well, the girls and the gays are here to have real fun.
Spotted. Newsflash: It-girl and runway model this season, Meredith Duxbury, made an appearance in the BUTT BAG, stashed with pre-rolls, to show there’s always a new use for their best-selling accessory, almost manufactured like Russian dolls.
The musky floral bouquets carried by models added a touch of innocence, featuring Gotham’s woman-owned brand, which brought scorched joint flowers that felt, quote-unquote, like “a kiss of nature to the runway.” As well as bridal dresses adorned with burning stones that questioned the purity of traditional bridal wear, presenting a modern image of femininity that is both holy and heroic.
Sculptural Silhouettes That Command Present-Tense Attention
Bold, architectural silhouettes dominate, amplifying the models’ presence. Each runway step is deliberate and commanding. The trench coats may lack fabric but impose their presence with every step.
Elements of earth and fire run throughout the overall vibe and ambiance. The red flamenco-inspired dress, paired with a metallic corset top, bridges the purity of the Holy Virgin Mary with the raw strength of the modern image of femininity. This isn’t about simple “boobs out,” rooted in provocation; in a conventional sense, it’s about reframing the idea of purity and restraint. There’s power in the way these models wear their skin-like armor.
Here, fabric transcends material—it symbolizes resilience and spirit. Where the material is minimal, attitude takes its place. After all, a little nipple never hurt anybody. The quasi-burnt halo effect surrounding the ‘Flame’ pieces isn’t about destruction; it’s about revealing the inner fire these women carry—the confidence to conquer. She’s a warrior, the kind who’d walk into a conference room as a Harvard summa cum laude, restructure the entire marketing plan, and improve market growth revenue results by 75% without raising her voice while saying, “I am not finished.” And then smile right back at you before disappearing like the witch from The Vampire Diaries.
Grace Ling’s Bright Future.
Her innovative creations have drawn the attention of high-profile personalities such as Kim Kardashian and Camila Cabello, establishing her as a go-to for A-listers. Her roster of celebrity admirers features Jennifer Lopez, FKA Twigs, Kylie Jenner, Emily Ratajkowski, Hari Nef, Anya Taylor–Joy, and other prominent figures. Familiar faces such as Precious Lee, Raya Martigny, Alex Consani, Ashley Graham, and former WNBA player Elizabeth Cambage also graced her runway, embodying GL’s unparalleled style.
The Spring/Summer 2025 concluding final piece juxtaposes the idea of skin—almost like the chastity belt from Scary Movie 1. And the conclusion? To discover something new, we may need to revisit our Neanderthal DNA. This collection isn’t just about fabric; it’s about going full circle into our ancestry. Sometimes, moving forward means returning to our roots most stylishly.
One thing is for sure—she has an outstanding future ahead. Preach, queen.
