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Ulyana Sergeenko: Spring-Summer 2021 Couture Collection Ulyana Sergeenko: Spring-Summer 2021 Couture Collection Vanity Teen 虚荣青年 Menswear & new faces magazine

Interview

Ulyana Sergeenko: Spring-Summer 2021 Couture Collection

Ulyana Sergeenko is an abiding reference of timeless elegance and exquisite couture that reflects the best of every woman. Her ethereal pieces empower the female body with sophistication and the finest balance between contemporaneity and tradition.

After releasing her Ulyana Sergeenko Couture Collection Spring-Summer 2021 in the Haute Couture Paris 2021, the Russian couturier shared with Vanity Teen some of her experience in the fashion industry, the legacy of her origins, and talked about her latest collection.

Ulyana Sergeenko Couture: Silk dress with a shoulder-mantle made of Yelets lace and decorated with Gus Khrustalny crystal elements
Silk dress with a shoulder-mantle made of Yelets lace and decorated with Gus Khrustalny crystal elements, ©Ulyana Sergeenko Couture, Spring-Summer 2021

Continue reading to find out more about this legendary woman who has been revolutionizing fashion designing for over a decade in the exclusive interview of Ulyana Sergeenko for Vanity Teen.

Elevating fashion in Russia

Q:     There has been a decade since the world knew Ulyana Sergeenko as a brand that came to stay, how have been these ten years of making statements in the fashion industry?

It has been an exciting adventure!

Q:     Part of the legacy of Ulyana Sergeenko is elevating fashion in Russia, and making the world notice the elegance and beauty that lies beneath the Russian culture and traditions. How would you describe this connection between your ancestry roots and Haute Couture?

I was always inspired by the rich history and culture of my country. We have so many traditional techniques and crafts that were forgotten. Since the very beginning, it has been the brand’s mission to preserve and promote our heritage, giving new life to traditional arts and crafts. That is why the pieces we made are timeless. And for me, it is synonymous with couture.

Ulyana Sergeenko Couture, Spring-Summer 2021
Silk dress with a corset decorated with Gus Khrustalny crystal elements.
Headpiece embroidered with Yelets lace and Gus Khrustalny crystal details.
©Ulyana Sergeenko Couture, Spring-Summer 2021

Ancient tradition and high fashion

Q:      Another important part of your brand is handcrafting, it is common to find out embroidered and hand-painted pieces. Could you tell us more about that commitment with handicraft artists?

I am proud that today people abroad know about Vologda or Yelets – two small Russian towns, the ancient centers of lace making in my country. Each season we try to expand the geography of crafts, to find new talents, new techniques. For example, the collection of the new season was created in collaboration with the record number of traditional ateliers, who specialize in the ancient traditions of lace-making from Yelets and Kadom artist, the production of crystal – at Gus Khrustalny, the art of painted enamels at Rostov Finift.

All the decorative elements — lace and crystal pieces, artistic enamels, and cross-stitching wooden carved bags, — were created based on developments of the brand’s design bureau in Moscow.

The process of tacking hand-weaved Yelets laces on a bra top at Ulyana Sergeenko’s atelier in Moscow
The process of tacking hand-weaved Yelets laces on a bra top at Ulyana Sergeenko’s atelier in Moscow ©Ulyana Sergeenko

The friends and clients of Ulyana Sergeenko

Q:      Do you have some favorite models to work with? Who are those ones who cannot miss one of your runway shows?

I love each woman who is taking part in the brand’s projects. All of them are very beautiful.

Dita von Teese and Ulyana Sergeenko
Dita von Teese and Ornella Muti | image courtesy of ©Ulyana Sergeenko

Q:      Dita von Teese, Beyoncé, Lady Gaga, and Natalia Vodiánova are some of the most well-known people who have worn your pieces. What can you tell us about these and other collaborations with friends and your very exclusive clientele?

It’s an honor to be noted by world-known celebrities and even call them brand’s friends and clients. We created costumes for tours and performances of legendary singers like Beyoncé, Madonna, Lady Gaga. We prepared red carpet looks for several Hollywood stars like Nicole Kidman, Angelina Jolie, Penélope Cruz, Emilia Clarke, Emma Stone, and many other beautiful and empowering women. The fact they are choosing the brand’s pieces – is the best compliment and reward for me and the team.

Natalia Vodiánova in Ulyana Sergeenko Couture dress and Antoine Arnault on their wedding in Paris
Natalia Vodiánova in Ulyana Sergeenko Couture dress and Antoine Arnault on their wedding in Paris | image courtesy of ©Ulyana Sergeenko
Beyoncé wearing Ulyana Sergeenko
Beyoncé wearing Ulyana Sergeenko | image courtesy of ©Ulyana Sergeenko

SS2021 Collection Couture

Q:      Let us talk about your Spring-Summer 2021 Collection Couture. What do you have to say about the architecture and sculptures that were used as inspiration for this collection?

The collection of the new season is inspired by the art-deco – the main style of the ’20s. The style’s influence can be traced through the combination of textures, the nature of the lines and silhouettes, the choice of colors, and the graphic quality of the ornamentation and embroidery.

In the moodboard of the new collection, you will find amazing dancing sculptors of Demetre Chiparus and the most recognizable architecture, interior décor, urban landmarks, and sculptures of the time: New York’s Empire State Building, the Lenin Library in Moscow, Vera Mukhina’s sculpture “The Worker and the Kolkhoz Woman,” Moscow’s “Aeroport” metro station. These are monumental pieces of art.

Ulyana Sergeenko Couture, Spring-Summer 2021
Hand-knitted top with interwoven beads and voluminous brooches on shoulders embroidered with silk flowers and beads, ©Ulyana Sergeenko Couture, Spring-Summer 2021

Q:      Collaborations are also important during your SS2021 Collection Couture. What can you share with us about Rostov Finift?

For the fashion house’s new collection, brooches and buttons were made at the Rostov Finift factory with unique patterns that adorn silk dresses, wool coats, suits, leather belts, and bags. The metal plates feature roses, geometric ornamentation, and the capital letters “УС,” all developed by our design bureau in collaboration with the enamel artists of Rostov Finift.

The elements of the collection created at the factory are metal plates of various shapes that are fired twice, before and after the pattern is applied. Each plate is decorated by hand and after being fired a second time, it is placed in a silver or gilt setting created especially for each of the pieces. All the settings have their own unique pattern made from fine silver filigree, also crafted entirely by hand. This complex, multi-step process for creating the enamels limits the number of pieces that can be produced and makes them unique and truly “precious.”

Sketches of Rostov enamel pieces with unique patterns
Sketches of Rostov enamel pieces with unique patterns
All developed by Ulyana Sergeenko’s design bureau in collaboration with the enamel artists of Rostov Finift, a factory founded in 1918. ©Ulyana Sergeenko
Rostov enamel brooch with a hand-crafted pattern ©Ulyana Sergeenko
Rostov enamel brooch with a hand-crafted pattern ©Ulyana Sergeenko

Q:      How about your work with Gus Crystal?

I am in love with crystal elements in the new collection. The crystal details decorate evening gowns and accessories, all were created in Gus-Khrustalny town, at the world-known factory. It was founded in 1756 by major Russian industrialist Akim Maltsov. For the new collection, special miniature details were created featuring the legendary diamond cut from clear, emerald, ruby, and amber crystal. At the center of some elements are hand-crafted images of flowers, as well as the initials “УС.” The artists and master craftspeople of the Gus Khrustalnyy factory had never worked on jewelry or decorative details for dresses before.

Crystal pieces created in Gus-Khrustalny, at the legendary factory founded in 1756
Crystal pieces created in Gus-Khrustalny, at the legendary factory founded in 1756.
©Ulyana Sergeenko
The process of tacking Gus Khrustalny crystal pieces on a dress at Ulyana Sergeenko’s atelier in Moscow ©Ulyana Sergeenko
The process of tacking Gus Khrustalny crystal pieces on a dress at Ulyana Sergeenko’s atelier in Moscow ©Ulyana Sergeenko

Kind regards

Q:   Would you keep bringing us the classic sophistication of the fairytale world in your couture?

I wish the brand will keep bringing timeless pieces to highlight women’s beauty which makes them feel confident.

Ulyana Sergeenko Couture, Spring-Summer 2021
Dress with a knitted corset embroidered with Yelets lace
©Ulyana Sergeenko Couture, Spring-Summer 2021

Q:  Anything else you would like to share with Vanity Teen?

I would like to wish health and safety to all readers and their families at this challenging time.

Ulyana Sergeenko Couture, Spring-Summer 2021
Velvet silk dress with a shoulder yoke embellished with Gus Khrustalny crystal pieces
 ©Ulyana Sergeenko Couture, Spring-Summer 2021

Before we go

Elegance, empowerment, love, splendor, and exquisite tradition come to mind when I evoke the Spring-Summer 2021 Couture Collection of Ulyana Sergeenko; but most importantly is recognizing the beauty that irradiates the gentleness of this prestigious fashion designer who has poured her heart into fashion and has made of her natal Russia a global reference of haute couture while making her name a brand to remember in one of the most competitive industries ever known.

Just like Ulyana Sergeenko, let us embrace our origins; let us be kind to each other.

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