by David Alarcon @david_alarcon__
Even without having recovered from the great collections presented at Men’s Fashion Week (unveiled digitally), Paris once again becomes the center of attention. And it is that Haute Couture returns to the capital of France, proving that neither the pandemic nor the lockdown nor the challenges that the 28 brands that are taking part in this unusual season from Monday 25 until Thursday 28 January, have managed to bring down the fashion system, turned into an escape valve to not pay attention to bad news and dream of a better future.
Spring/Summer 2021 Haute Couture season started with Schiaparelli. One of the most praised brands which haven’t stopped generating a great buzz since its creative director Daniel Roseberry @danielroseberry took office in 2019, decided to give back emotion and surprise to fashion. His show 231 Seconds, alluding to the duration of the digital presentation in which he invites us to accompany him during the behind-the-scenes fittings, is an ode to creative freedom. Always respecting Elsa Schiaparelli’s surreal codes, a disruptive spirit that combated hermeticism and boredom in fashion. Maximalist jewelry, muscular garments with in-built abs, oversized volumes, and an accurate vision in which past, present, and future coexist.
Iris van Herpen, probably the designer who best represents the synergy between craftsmanship and technology, presented her new collection Roots of Rebirth. Inspired by fungi, spores, and roots, and trying to connect with nature (which we have missed so much during this month in confinement), the Dutch creator continues betting on 3D printing, incorporating fabrics made from marine waste. Inspired by the scientist Merlin Sheldrake’s book, Entangled Life, the designer seeks intimate connections between human beings, and between them and wild flora, through the 21 looks that make up the collection.
Dior seems to have found in fashion films a perfect formula to convey its intriguing and suggestive stories, in the form of short videos loaded with symbolism and hidden meanings. On this occasion, Maria Grazia Chiuri opens the doors of Le Château du Tarot to present her Spring/Summer Haute Couture 2021 collection. Based on one of the great passions of master Christian Dior, the divinatory arts and the mysticism of the tarot, Chiuri bets everything on introspection through characters such as Le Pendu (The Hanged Man), La Lune (The Moon), or L’ Étoile (The Star). In short, a dream world where details, craftsmanship, and creativity come together harmoniously.
Giambattista Valli moves to the south of Spain in his new collection, also inspired by introspection. Specifically to Seville, combining his already characteristic tulle dresses with references taken from Spanish folklore. Maximalism inherent in Haute Couture according to the Italian designer, for whom the basis of this art is volume, both in the garments and in the hairstyles (and its accessories) that leave no one indifferent. In the video created for the occasion, fashion coexists with architecture and dance, in an evident plea in favor of culture and the synergy among different creative disciplines.
Among the guest members that showed her collections during this first day, we find the Russian designer Ulyana Sergeenko, who decided to show the meticulous process of creating her garments by claiming the value of craftsmanship; Azzaro Couture, playing with movement, perspectives, and optical illusions in a conceptual video; and Julie de Libran, in an optimistic presentation in which she recreated day-to-day situations.
From the vindication of craftmanship to collections that look to the future through technology, the Spring/Summer Haute Couture 2021 season promises to be a reflex of the concerns and worries that emerged in these past months.