Milan Fashion Week fourth day showcased different collections with varied proposals but with a common focus on functionality and its relationship with the environment, whether this is in conceptual terms of a more industrialized but at the same time relaxed functionality, or functionality with emotional purposes in relation to the desolation experienced in the times of confinement. One of the standout events was the debut of Glenn Martens as Diesel’s creative director. Today’s highlights include A-Cold-Wall*, Diesel, JieDa.
The moments experienced have undoubtedly emphasized the centrality of functionality and its relationship with the environment. Some have focused on interconnectivity between formal and casual wear. Through a film that features the brand’s Pre-SS22 and #AColdWallSS22 collections and portrays the brand’s manifesto “Motion.Form.Oscillate.Converge“, Samuel Ross, the Spring-Summer 2022 collection for A-Cold-Wall* (@acoldwall) displayed with the signature conceptuality and functionality, injected this time with a more leisurely aesthetic, highlighted with slightly more vibrant hues: citrine yellow, lime green, orange and blue.
One of the most anticipated moments of the fourth day of fashion week was the official debut of Glenn Martens (I.G. @glennmartens) as Diesel‘s (I.G. @diesel)Creative Director. For many, it was a resurgence of the brand from a collection that showed a reintroduction based on the essence of the brand but in its own language of fashion…. an authentic Diesel collection, surprising and contextualized to modernity. It is said that from chaos comes order, and as far as the debut of Martens for the Italian brand is concerned, the way to present this new direction of the brand has been with a view to a new direction, more evolved, and according to today’s consumer.
Presented through a short film that closely resembles Tom Tykwer’s 1998 film “Run Lola, Run”. The collection begins with the introduction of a girl with a style similar to that of Franka Potente, a girl that we could consider embodies the essence of the brand with the characteristic look (baggy jeans, deconstructed white T-shirt, and high-heeled boots), waking up in the middle of a party.
We could consider that the initial “normality” with which the pieces of the collection begin is gradually broken by the enigmatic vision of the designer, noting that in the following scenarios traveled by the protagonist, the pieces begin to take a different form, some pieces presented with the characteristic denim but with touches of streetwear, others with the recognized metallic logo of the 80s introduced by Renzo Rosso, pieces with military patterns and others with touches of athleisure, to finally culminate with workwear with touches of sporty automotive and organza coat. A finale that brings us back to a balance. This narrative closure of the collection can only happen when all the threads (looks) have been tied together and the designer’s first vision for the brand has been known.
The current times have given the impression that we are (on a certain individual level) together, yet at the same time, we feel distanced, isolated from others and from ourselves, from the self and from society, a journey into the unknown in the uncertain times set since the beginning of lockdown. Presenting its Spring-Summer 2022 collection through a runway film entitled “Intolerance“, JieDa SS22 (I.G. @jieda) presents “Underground”, a collection that delves into this notion of the current journey into the unknown we are currently walking, showcasing the brand’s characteristic aesthetic signature of balance between luxurious tailoring clashes with 90’s retro streetwear, and sportswear.
Directed by Hireto Hotta, “Intolerance” showcases JieDa SS22 collection in three acts, models are translated through three different settings: a forest, a futuristic setting with rounds lights at the ceiling, ending with a dark underground austere place; each setting powerful in their own unique nature, yet at the same time isolating them from human contact.
Inspired by the photo album Japan underground, by Hideaki Uchiyama as well as the cover of Title #2 + #3, by Japanese DJ and producer Takkyu Ishino (Denki Groove), the theme of the natural to the subway and with light as a metaphor for the struggle, hope in the face of darkness and desolation are translated in the collection through the prints and the summery but dark color palette composed of brown, saxophone black and dark brown, being complimented or illuminated with lighter shades of beige and gray, mint green and bright green as dominant.