Milan Fashion Week. When we look at the diversity of proposals that have emerged from the seasons affected by the pandemic, we can notice that they all have something in common: to break with pre-established rigid schemes. As far as fashion is concerned, it no longer follows a direct line to present a collection and appreciate it for its textile and creative qualities, now it delves much more into the needs of today’s consumer, whose way of life (and therefore dress) has been affected.
It is precisely for this second day of Milan Fashion Week (I.G. @), where we see collections that centers on functionality, while others on a blend of cultural-handcrafted references, and others intend to bring optimism. Today’s highlights include Canali, Children of Discordance, and Dolce & Gabbana.
Canali channels the artistic natural atmosphere of 90s L.A.
Canali’s (I.G. @canali1934) paradigm of Italian luxury and masculine elegance are once again renewed in the Spring-Summer 2022 collection by presenting pieces that reinterpret the brand’s style signatures. The multifaceted Los Angeles environment of the 1990s is the inspiration for this collection, reflecting the multifaceted natural environment of Tinseltown, with light being the key element of the collection.
References to the light of sunrise and sunset, as well as its dynamism with the colors of the ocean and hills, are captured through the use of a neutral color palette. Such dynamism is not captured in a static manner, as the complementarity is brought to life through the flow of colors and textures.
The collection also presents its Black and Exclusive edition lines, design lines based this season on the urban fashion of the city in the 90s, the street art, music, and sports of that era, and the experimental development of functional pieces adapted to the needs of modern men with elements of high tailoring.
Dolce & Gabbana: #DGLIGHTTHERAPY
No doubt many people in southern Italy will describe a certain emotion when they hear the word “luminaire”, an Italian artisan tradition. For Dolce & Gabbana (I.G. @dolcegabbana), such art, as well as 2000s aesthetics, is the inspiration for the Spring-Summer 2022 collection, a celebration of optimism and pride in Italian tradition and craftsmanship, these being the core values of the house.
An evocative journey into the heart of the traditional Italian art of luminarie in celebration of Fatto a Mano, forever part of the Dolce&Gabbana DNA.Dolce & Gabbana
Showcased at Metropol, the location was transformed with various bright-colored luminarie. Bringing a hint of optimism, an element partially devalued by the pandemic, the designers tried #DGLIGHTTHERAPY, sharing the joy of one of the characteristic Italian artistic traditions both in their show and in the pieces of the collection. Consisting of 95 looks, the illuminating theme is observed in most of the looks: pieces with 2000’s silhouettes, suits, denim pants, washed jeans, loose jackets encrusted with colorful crystals. T-shirts and pieces with messages celebrating Italian pride. According to the designers: “A celebration of light and color, a dialogue between tradition and contemporaneity.”
Children of the Discordance: “Progress”
Among the various styles proposed, we could not forget the streetwear, highlighting designer Hideaki Shikama of Children of the Discordance (I.G. @hildren_of_the_discordance) with his SS22 collection entitled “Progress”, a collection that delves into presenting contemporary Japanese street art. With music being an indispensable part of the brand’s essence, the collection was presented through a five-minute video directed by Keita Suzuki and Hideaki Shikama showcasing the performance of Japanese dance collective King Of Swag that perfectly captures the essence of the brand’s collection at the beat of Zacari “Don’t Trip” and “Run Wild, Run Free”. A message that encourages us to move forward, that highlights the world’s resilience, that we are ready to move on.
The handcrafted style representative of the brand is reflected in the sophisticated and upcycled pieces made from 50-year-old kimono fabrics found in Hachioji, Japan. Breaching west and east culture, the designer harmoniously blended Japanese and Native American references through colors, textiles, and vintage pieces.