Milan Fashion Week has kicked off. For the first day, the proposals were diverse, each with their own way of responding to the current times, which have undoubtedly forced us to question our relationship with clothing; some opted for a collection that reflects adaptability to modern reality, while others chose to present a paradigm free from the rigidity of the fashion industry and some more proposing a message of optimism and joy linked to the feeling of the season. On the first day, the highlights include Ermenegildo Zegna, Philipp Plein, Tíscar Espadas, and Mans,
Ermenegildo Zegna: ¨The (NEW) Set¨…tuned to the needs of today
Alessandro Sartori (I.G. @alessandrosartoriofficial) continues his manifesto for Ermenegildo Zegna (I.G.@zegnaofficial) on the rethinking of clothing within the current modern times, presenting for Spring-Summer 22 season ¨The (New) Set¨, a collection defined by a modern mindset and a multifaceted lifestyle “tuned to the needs of today”.
Using the digital format as a fashion video, the storytelling of the collection is shown as a scale of possibilities that the individual can adopt, adapting them sartorially to the modern man by prioritizing infinite versatility through the interrelation between luxury tailoring and leisurewear, taking full advantage of Zegna’s textile expertise and innovative construction methods, reflected in fluid silhouettes and freedom of movement. The color palette reflects the argument of adaptability, fluidity, and freedom.
The collection follows the dialogue proposed last season with (Re)Set, where the creative director reinterpreted the codes of style and (re)tailoring for the modern man. With this new aesthetic, the Spring-Summer ’22 collection is the product of the mix between a versatile elegance product of luxury tailoring and leisurewear, without leaving aside the brand’s roots.
¨THE (NEW) SET breaks free of convention to reflect the reality of our times.¨Ermenegildo Zegna
Despite the limitations that not being able to present a show could bring even a designer like Philipp Plein (I.G. @philipppleinofficial) whose dynamic and creative presentations are best appreciated in person, the designer has taken advantage of the freedom that the digital format has brought, materializing his aesthetics, luxury, and passion for rock n’ roll as well as current trends, the designer manages to clearly materialize his vision for this Spring-Summer collection by collaborating for the second time with digital illustrator Antoni Tudisco, as well as a collaboration with Travis Barker of Blink-182, who presented a new song called “Hollywood Sucks.
Tiscar Espadas: Capítulo III
For designer Tiscar Espadas (I.G. @tiscarespadas), authenticity, detailed craftsmanship, and freedom of wearability are reflected in this collection entitled “Capítulo III” (Chapter III), demonstrating that fashion transcends the boundaries of clothing and is reflected in every part of our lives and personal universe. Inspired by
Showing the border between the divine and the earthly, myths and humanity, spirituality and reason, the collection is inspired by the Renaissance portals located in Úbeda, Tíscar’s hometown in southern Spain. Such inspiration is far from an architectural inspiration, but rather a symbolic one.
“The gods that appear in the portal, despite being considered mythological and unreal figures, speak of universal themes that still survive in today’s world. Twenty-first-century man still relies on the imaginary.”
The connection between the imaginary and the real is materialized through the new garments that show how boundaries can be bridged through dreams, desire, and creativity in the pursuit of a common illusion. This is reflected through details such as leather belts. Just as a belt binds clothing to the body, it binds the wearer closer to reality at the same time as straps, ropes, and belts are embedded in jackets, shirts, jeans, and pockets, with the intention that each person, playing precisely with his or her invention, can shape the garment as he or she wishes. This is also seen in the hats, which are reminiscent of horse blinkers, restraining and giving the mind room to roam.
Mans: Summer Camp
Jaime Álvarez trae el optimismo y alegría de la temporada para la colección Spring-Summer ’22 de Mans (I.G. @mansconceptmenswear). Focused on a more youthful vibe for this collection, reflecting relaxed silhouettes with a fresh and summery touch. The pieces of baggy shirts, and short shorts revisited and created with wool and cotton as in their own swimwear, giving a dual functionality, as dress and casual, shorts and pants, mixed with vibrant prints and colors that do not lose the essence of the brand’s signature bold masculine tailoring.