Interview by Mira Postolache
Based in Germany and Sweden, LAZOSCHMIDL works as an artist’s studio that has ascript for each collection. Awarded with the Innovation Prize 2016 by Swedish Fashion Council, their work has been featured in leading international magazines. The work of LAZOSCHMIDL is based on social norms.
Designed by German-Swedish duo Andreas Schmidl and Josef Lazo, Lazoschmidl separates themselves through their playful and gender-disrupting approach to conventional menswear. Debuting their first collection in Stockholm in 2017, the brand combines fashion, design and writing. Through their ‘conceptual’ brand aesthetic, Lazoschmidl breaks the boundaries of innate sexual conscience with each garment. The constant dialogue between fashion design and literature is translated into hand-crafted garments in their work. Each collection begins with a text that describes every single look meticulously. By working from a conceptual thought, limitations about execution, context or functionality are irrelevant. The fiction is then translated into garments.
Lazoschmidl Fall/Winter 2023 explores the basic needs of survival, happiness and beauty. What makes us satisfied? What makes us happy? What makes us feel pretty? Taste the forbidden fruit – a leitmotif of the brand – is re-applied onto cozy intarsia knitwear, resistant biker/cycling gear and luscious floral prints. Garments feature artificial intelligence designed artworks melting three levels of existence: food, decor and health. Key pieces include bodysuits, kangaroo hoodies, gilets and raincoats. Transparency is contrasted by hardness, nakedness opposed to layering.
Conceptual, non-binary menswear and womenswear, let’s discover their signature cut-out underwear, lurex knitwear and sparkly party attire from an exclusive interview for Vanity Teen:
Tell us more about your inspiration sources for the Fall-Winter 23/24 Menswear collection. Walk us through your design process a little bit. Are there any pieces that are your favorite from this collection?
We were looking back at our archive and our design statement to ‘taste the forbidden fruit’ – so we designed around this slogan. For the first time, we used AI to design the art works. To make it more interesting we combined fruit with flowers and toothpaste – just for fun. The results were beautiful and reminded us of old school advertisements. So our favorite pieces are the printed garments, also the transparent raincoat with a rose print. Plus speedos and harnesses held together with butterfly hardware.
Being a German-Swedish studio but a marketing based in Paris, tell us how challenging is the business part for you as creatives?
You have to build your own business strategy and network to be able to survive. But trusting in yourself, hard work pays off.
How would you define the term “long-lasting” in fashion? How important is the way an artist is facing the challenges in such a complex industry?
We would see the term “long-lasting” in context of our brand building to be determined and never give up. Applying new intelligent design tools and using recycled fabrics also adds to this. Regarding the sustainability aspect, since we design the collection in a written concept first, there is no waste or unneeded waste due to experiments or multiple fabric developments. We know what we want and don’t overproduce, at the same time we offer a few styles only as made-to-order pieces. So in this case, the customer also appreciates the artisanal aspect and cherishes it for a longer time than just one season. Also we don’t follow trends, we design by intuition.
How do you explore the needs of survival, happiness and beauty through the fabrics of the last FW23/24 collection. What makes you satisfied? What makes you happy? :)
We have re-introduced some loungewear ensembles that feel very comfortable and give the body a soft and secure space. The more transparent and sexy looks also create a sense of inner satisfaction.
We know that a few of your garments feature artificial intelligence designed artworks melting three levels of existence: food, decor and health. How digital art + AI improve fashion in a positive way?
It allows you to translate your subconscious in a new way without baring any danger. If it is applied in an aesthetic context and is fed with detailed information it can support and elevate your thoughts.
What’s your favorite project that you’ve worked on during your career?
Tom of Finland outfits for their doll.
Name us a few creatives you would like to collaborate with.
Jack Pierson, Britney Spears, Donald Duck.
What is your favorite place where you feel inspired?
A letter to your future self. What would you write?
You made it. Well, that would be more like a postcard.