How And When Sustainability Became Cool - A Chat With Achilles And The Tortoise Vanity Teen 虚荣青年

Achilles and the Tortoise (AATT) is an Amsterdam-based slow fashion and lifestyle brand established in 2019 by three friends. Achilles’ goal is to create standout pieces with a positive impact on humans and nature. The brand launched with an ambitious collaboration together with WWF. Their inspiration comes from the rich heritage of human cultures combined with our astonishing wildlife converted to contemporary designs.

Achilles and the Tortoise releases two timeless private label unisex collections a year. AATT currently is one of the most ambitious slow fashion brands of the Netherlands and is still growing its product range to finally become a full-fledged store for your complete sustainable wardrobe.

We met the creative director Willem van Helvoirt few weeks ago in Paris and that’s what he told us.

Hi There!
According to you, what’s fashion?

I think fashion is many things. It is expression, craft, and art. For me, it’s a way of telling stories, where the message lies not only in the design but in how it’s executed. Craft is about aiming for the best, while art is about conceptualizing something deeper. Fashion allows me to communicate without words.

And what’s Achilles and the Tortoise?
How do you “talk about” fashion through your collections?

For me it is a way of telling that everything is connected. Us humans with our environment: nature. The name is a metaphor for rebalancing the scales between the arrogant human and unwavering nature. We need to find a balance between the two.
I tell stories through the materials we use and the understated but well- considered designs, combined with prints that unapologetically say, ‘Look at me.’ It reflects the idea that as humans, we are not entirely good or bad: there’s a balance to be found.

How could you describe your style?

I see clothing as a form of self-expression, and I hope our pieces give people the tools to tell their own stories. It’s a way to show your intentions and your mood. I would describe Achilles and the Tortoise as a long lasting wind of understated statements. Every piece we create has meaning: designed to last and tell a story over time. 

“Achilles and the Tortoise (AATT) is an Amsterdam-based slow fashion and lifestyle brand established in 2019 by three friends. Achilles’ goal is to create standout pieces with a positive impact on humans and nature”, that’s what we read in your brand presentation. What does it mean? What’s behind your creative process?

Achilles and the Tortoise is about more than just fashion. Our goal is to create clothing that not only looks good but also has a positive impact, using organic materials and thoughtful designs that respect the environment.
Behind the creative process, it’s always about storytelling. I start with the material because it’s the foundation of everything. Whether it’s organic cotton, hemp, or algae-based dyes, I choose fabrics and techniques that align with our commitment to sustainability.
From there, I focus on creating pieces that feel timeless but also have a subtle edge, mixing quiet designs with bold details. The end result is something that’s designed to last, both in terms of style and durability, and to remind us of our connection with the world around us.

What’s your background?

I didn’t come from a traditional fashion background. I took sewing courses in Amsterdam and taught myself pattern making along the way. My background is rooted in creativity—art direction, specifically. I’ve worked on creative direction for other brands, but with Achilles and the Tortoise, I have full creative control. It’s my personal playground where I get to experiment and explore ideas I wouldn’t necessarily try with clients. That freedom allows me to push boundaries and bring my vision to life.

If I say ‘sustainability’ what do you reply?

All the way. I hope some day we have a world where everyone benefits from the products we make. For me inclusivity and sustainability are the same thing. You can’t preach inclusivity and then go produce your clothes in a way that harms others. It’s all connected, and that’s the standard we hold ourselves to at Achilles and the Tortoise. 

I met you last month in Paris where you were presenting your SS25 at Who’s Next. Let’s talk about the collection.

Yes! And it was so nice to meet you.
We presented two collections. One was a zero-waste capsule collection made from hemp. Using all leftover materials to create the buttons that are featured on the clothing. We did this with social atelier Fabriek Fris and Anderlus whom created this technique.
The other collection is an addition to our Essentials line, which focuses on slow fashion and building a timeless wardrobe. Every year, we add one or two new pieces. This years addition is sweaters that talk about the connectivity between Humans and Nature. Fully organic and coloured with algae – a new technique that I am super excited about.

Do you have any favorite piece from the collection?

I love love love the purple Achilles crewneck. Playful and toned whilst having a colour that screams – I love this duality in a piece of clothing.

How and when sustainability became cool - A chat with Achilles and the Tortoise How and when sustainability became cool - A chat with Achilles and the Tortoise Vanity Teen 虚荣青年

“Fashion should be a form of escapism, and not a form of imprisonment”, Alexander McQueen said. In 2024, can fashion still be an escape route, a way to escape social conventions?

Definitely, I think it has to be. Everyone looks the same without clothes on. Fashion is the layers that you add to create your own convention. For me it is a must to escape the normality. Fashion gives people the tools to claim the role that they want to manifest for that day.

A letter to your future self.
“Dear Future Me,
You are killing it darling.   Keep on keeping on.
XOXO, 
Willem”