“He talks about a jacket with a front-forward shoulder. Sleeves that curve away from the elbow, a jumpy, rear-forward shift, and a very slim waist.
He describes a double-breasted wool gabardine coat as a strong, energy-filled piece with shoulders tapering ahead, a round back, and a belt which squeezes it all shut.
He holds up a circular cape, which is draped off-centre to activate a dynamic sway.
The wrongness of it all is perfect.
He explains the design philosophy: by moving a classical element from its familiar place and creating a parallel reality, the wearer identifies with the piece as their own.
Pleated Ultrasuede smocks and plump fake fur coats. Fine houndstooth straight skirts and luminous padded jackets. Shiny
metallic leggings and crumpled flannel crew necks. Crushed velvet dresses. Roomy denim jeans.
Modular leather bags that are their own mixed-up kind of thing: a folder, a pill box, a glasses case. A boot from Reebok’s archive – NPC Insigna -has been heat-washed, leaving behind a warped, stretched and elongated gesture.
The archetypes are just slightly off and sit on the body with their own character. The shoulders on a trench are rounded, a
sweatshirt twisted, collars on shirting sliced off.
Your body takes on its own life shaped by these clothes.
Your shoulders are going to the front.
Your back becomes wider and larger.
Your arms are bending a bit.
Your waist flares.
Your pants are long and pooled into socks.
Who has the freedom to look different, who tugs at the norm?”
PHOTOGRAPHER: GIOVANNI GIANNONI
Styling Samuel Drira
Production Company 247PLUS
Executive producer Gemma Soriano
Producer Berta Prim
Music Guy Ben Ami
Show notes Dal Chodha
Special consultant Anouschka
Casting Director Isadora Banaudi
Casting Assistant Silvia Casalicchio
PR KCD Paris
Hair Mayu Morimoto
for TONI&GUY Italia using L’Oréal Professionnel products
Makeup Asami Kawai
Styling Assistant Jorge García
Thanks to Pitti Uomo, Bertrand Tavier, Cécile Bortoletti, Sybille Walter, Arteo