On the New York runway, Eckhaus Latta SS27 embraced an effortless sensuality, where sheer layers, fluid silhouettes and unexpected textures moved freely with the body, before giving American sportswear a subversive twist through its new J.Crew collaboration.
Eckhaus Latta presented its Spring/Summer 2027 collection in New York, bringing to the runway a new exploration of the relationship between clothing and the body. Layering, transparency, relaxed silhouettes and constructions that seemed to move with the wearer defined a collection in which sensuality came not so much from exposing the body, but from the freedom with which the clothes rested against it, followed its movement and, at times, revealed it.
Behind this distinctive sensibility are Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta. The two met while studying at the Rhode Island School of Design, where Mike studied sculpture and Zoe textiles. They founded Eckhaus Latta in 2012, building the brand between New York and Los Angeles.
Over the past fifteen years, what began as an independent project has developed into one of the most distinctive voices in contemporary American fashion, while retaining an identity that resists easy definition. Its language often favors imperfection, tactility and material experimentation over conventional notions of polish.
Eckhaus Latta’s clothes, after all, seem to belong to bodies rather than to an idealized notion of the body. And it is precisely this principle that returns with particular clarity for SS27.
Tank tops and dresses are layered over one another, combining contrasting colors or sheer, weightless fabrics in the same shade as the garments underneath. The silhouettes remain relaxed, never constraining the figure. Instead, they leave space for the body and its movement, giving the clothes a casual, effortless attitude without sacrificing refinement.
Crochet takes on a bolder character, with dresses and trousers constructed from wide, open-knit structures, while slim metallic cuffs worn high on the arms introduce a sharper element against otherwise soft and fluid silhouettes.
There is something distinctly New York about this apparent nonchalance. Eckhaus Latta works with combinations that might look almost accidental if encountered on the street: one tank layered over another, trousers sitting low on the hips, something sheer thrown over something ordinary. Yet behind this spontaneity lies a precise attention to proportion, texture and the way each garment interacts with the person wearing it.
And it is in the final part of the show that this exploration meets one of the most recognizable expressions of American style: J.Crew.
The final twelve looks introduced Eckhaus Latta’s new collaboration with the American retailer, placing Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta’s experimental vocabulary in direct conversation with the familiar codes of American sportswear. Shirts and ties were paired with convertible jackets, styled with balaclavas or, in womenswear, juxtaposed with duffle coats. Familiar wardrobe references subtly displaced from their usual context.
The project grew out of a deep dive into the J.Crew archives. The designers explored decades of vintage catalogs, drawing on their colors, proportions and iconic pieces before reinterpreting them through their own visual language. Perhaps this is where Eckhaus Latta’s strength becomes most apparent: not in the need to invent an entirely new wardrobe, but in the ability to make what we thought we already knew feel unexpected again.
Eckhaus Latta SS27
