“Creativity doesn’t wait for that perfect moment. It fashions its own perfect moments out of ordinary ones.”
Bruce Garrabrandt, artist
What is creativity for you? (For me) It is the ideal instrument of contamination, it is the apotheosis of intellectual thought, it is the bridge between mind and heart, it is the direct line with the child who resides in each of us.
In fashion creativity is (or should be) an essential element, the designer’s code, the vademecum for a consecration. It bursts, on tiptoe, even in the new decade: it is blurred, integrated into a system that imposes “to be fast” but luckily (it is) present.
Teleporting my body (and mind) all over the Earth from fashion week to fashion week, armed with the faithful black notebook, I selected 5 new-established-talents, those who (for different reasons) highlighted the most creative collections during the months dedicated to Men’s and Women’s appointments in 2022.
Glenn Martens x Y/PROJECT
Glenn Martens is the designer, in the way I intend this word. He is a trendsetter, a creative soul, a controversial-dystopian thinker. He is ironic, above all. And the ironic wit of his brand is vibrant, and permeates its atmosphere and all the garments.
In a new iteration of Y/PROJECT’s twisted couture, Glenn Martens actually offers an effusion of deconstructed shapes, colors, and textures. Each piece is an experience and a means of personal expression.
It is the future of fashion (I hope).
Benjamin Huseby and Serhat Isik x GMBH
“If you could, what word would you use to describe the GmbH brand?” someone asked me one day. “Contamination,” I replied.
GmbH is a melting pot of emotions and inspirations. It is a perfect mix of the purest streetwear and sartorial delicacy. It is a meeting between two hearts and minds, those of the founder’s Benjamin Huseby (photographer) and Serhat Isik (designer). The result produced is coherent and modern, detached from the common rules of fashion and therefore exciting.
Born in Berlin in 2016, GmbH is a primordial sensory experience. Its design represents the multiculturalism of our time: we needed it.
Luca Magliano x MAGLIANO
Luca Magliano is cinematographic. In his shows and presentations, he stages short films with dark, passionately nostalgic, grotesque outlines. It is a gift to lovers of Rossellinian neorealism but also to Federico Fellini‘s visionary fantasies. In an imaginary escape from Rimini director’s (Fellini, I mean) delirium dream, the men of Magliano seriously parade in a smoky billiard room, in a desert beach or on the rooftop of a dilapidated building.
I can only applaud his Mediterranean-decadent masculinity.
Francesco Risso x MARNI
It is a surreal dimension that Francesco Risso takes us to. It is such an extreme surreality that becomes real, never ephemeral, at times carnal, violently artistic.
It is an intimate reflection. The designer always plays on the human factor, on the crazy poetry of life itself. In his hands, colors and fabrics are a pen with which Francesco is writing a new exciting chapter of Marni’s story.
He is not new, but creative for sure.
Breaking from the past and yet consistent with his artistic path, the New York designer Rick Owens’ collections are a tribute: a tribute to the humankind, a voyage in its history and art.
His vision is a warning to the 3.0 generation. It is a splendid imagistic-apocalyptic-gaze on a post-apocalyptic-future. It is the representation of the triumph of good over evil, like the statue of the god Horus at the entrance of the temple of Edfu in Luxor (EDFU is the name of the Men’s SS23 also).