Men’s Fashion Week is over and it’s hot in Paris.
Running, from one show to another, stuck in that perpetual traffic that, alas, never goes out of style, the only breath of fresh air came from the collections, some of the SS24 Collections.
The ones I have selected have been able to refresh my skin until they penetrate my bones, unleashing a thrill of pleasure. They have reawakened the slumbering senses enveloped in an annoying numbness.
They celebrated the season of the sun (as the ancients used to define it) by infusing it with a different light, sometimes controversial, sometimes intense, fortunately (always) dazzling.
LI-NING
Li-Ning presents its Spring/Summer 2024 vision on models who strode to an eclectic soundtrack that mimicked a person surfing through FM radio stations in New York, Paris and Shanghai. The models comes into and out of a series of doorways that ranged in styles from ancient to modern to industrial — each functioning as a portal into a distinct Li-Ning world with its own unique aesthetic. Some doors references traditional Chinese octagonal and vase shapes, while the húlu door was inspired by a Chinese plant, a symbol of luck.
Li-Ning developed the show’s theme in collaboration with Oscar Wang, a Chinese artist known for works that blur the lines between physical and digital.
LGN LOUIS GABRIEL NOUCHI
Reflecting Louis Gabriel Nouchi’s lifetime passion for reading, each collection pays tribute to a book or a writer who has inscribed their vision on the world.
The SS24 collection is inspired by the book “A SINGLE MAN“ by Christopher Isherwood (1964).
This collection is a reflection on the tension between the structure imposed on men in society and the uncontrollable force of the repressed emotions. It opens the conversation on mourning, and how men are expected to react, openly show or not, emotions.
In the novel, George has recently lost his long-term partner, Jim, in a car accident. George goes through a journey having various encounters that colors his senses and enlighten the possibilities of being alive and human in the world.
MARINE SERRE
HEARTBEAT – MARINE SERRE’s new collection presents a megamix of seasonal one-hit wonders, rare gems, and golds. Close your eyes, crank up the volume, and listen to the music. This season’s show will bring you back to basics: an animal and physical expression of love.
The show sets the tone with the first notes of Debussy‘s ‘Clair de Lune,’ an ode to nightlife and a reference to Marine Serre’s moon crescent logo. This originally transgressive classical track keeps its iconoclast touch serving as the perfect foundation for this 15-minute re-interpretation—a journey through the history of electronic dance music. As the show music producer Pierre Rousseau likes to say: “It’s a process of radicality, regeneration, and hybridization dear to MARINE SERRE, adapted to music.” A sumptuous track that captures the heavenly sensation of a perfect summer day, making you want to dance. The kind of track that can instantly shoot your mood to the Moon and back.
The staged collection highlights a plethora of techniques, fabrics, and silhouettes, with half of them regenerated from upcycled or deadstock materials—a showcase of different expressions of passion.
The runway cast is a unique signature of the house, featuring an eclectic group of models and eleven music artists: Teyana Taylor, Miguel, Aron Piper, Sevdaliza, Noah Cyrus, Yseult, Brooke Candy, Anetha, Pink Siifu, John Glacier and Aime Simone. All jamming together and vibing at the same pulsation.
RICK OWENS
Rick is back to black, successfully.
LIDO, the name of the Men’s SS24, is a hymn to joy (despite the black color).
Considering joy a moral obligation, Rick Owens proposes a grim, determined elegance, all in a formal, restrained, albeit admittedly drama queen, black. How one handles adversity is what defines one’s character.
Strict structured trousers in wool, silk or cotton faille are high and cinch waisted and skim the leg flaring out to drag on the floor, and are paired with silk or leather t-shirts that wrap and stretch and twist and drape around the upper torso.
Cropped tailored jkts in gots certified organic cotton organdy or silk gazar have transparent silk organza linings to reveal the intricate confection of the inner construction. sharply extended shoulders are caught with a skinny knit sleeve to control the volume and elongate the arm.
VETEMENTS
VETEMENTS explores all facets of fashion in the Spring/Summer 2024 Collection.
The trailblazing fashion label celebrated for its disruptive designs and boundary-pushing aesthetics, is thrilled to unveil its highly anticipated Spring/Summer 2024 collection.
Embodying the brand’s unwavering spirit of exploration, this collection ventures into every facet of fashion, from casual wear to haute couture, and from niche aesthetics to mainstream appeal.
With a steadfast commitment to challenging the status quo, VETEMENTS once again breaks the mold, delivering a collection that defies categorization and redefines contemporary fashion. The Spring/Summer 2024 collection is a culmination of the brand’s audacious vision, presenting a diverse range of garments that cater to a multitude of styles, occasions, and fashion sensibilities.
At the heart of the collection lies VETEMENTS’ exploration of casual wear, where the brand’s irreverent approach breathes new life into everyday essentials. From reimagined denim to oversized t-shirts, the collection elevates the ordinary into extraordinary, infusing each piece with unique detailing and unexpected twists. By seamlessly blending comfort and style, VETEMENTS transforms casual wear into a compelling expression of individuality.
Simultaneously, VETEMENTS ventures into the realm of haute couture, showcasing exquisite craftsmanship and meticulous attention to detail. The collection features impeccably tailored suits, glamorous gowns, and intricately embellished ensembles that epitomize luxury and sophistication. With an artistic flair that transcends conventional boundaries, VETEMENTS offers a fresh perspective on couture, infusing it with a contemporary edge that captivates the imagination.