The last day of Milan Fashion Week (I.G. @cameramoda) culminates for us with the highlights of APN73, Magliano, and Solid Homme. We talked during this week about the focus of most designers on functionality, as well as upcycling. Now we would like to end with collections that try to highlight through their films and collections the desires of freedom, human anthropology, the return to the beaches, although we are talking about summer even if it sounds cliché.
APN73: Wardrobe Malfunction?!
A lively rhythm and a color palette with bold contrasts are the elements of the Spring-Summer 2022 collection of APN73 (I.G. @apersonalnote73) by JNBY and Andrea Pompilio, underlining the concept of a contemporary life suspended between virtual play and reality, injecting color to an era where we are slowly saying goodbye to the monotony that has been the constant since lockdown. Pieces of high street and artistic features and the characteristic tailoring of the Italian designer, the collection is inspired by the Californian culture of the 90s, with some pieces presented in oversize form, giving a more relaxed look, as well as motifs referring to the Gold Coast as palm trees.
It is certainly never easy to work behind a collection and even more so in an era such as confinement, being the case for designer Luca Magliano for his eponymous brand Magliano (I.G. @magliano.insta) a Spring-Summer collection that reflects his own interpretation of the humorous fluids: Phlegmatic, Sanguine, Choleric and Melancholic…the four unbalanced temperaments of Magliano’s characters for his collection.
A mix of new looks brought to life with upcycling, introduced through fabrics from old seasons of past fashions, new organic dyes, and stylistic pastiches.
Upsetting the fundamentals of the closet with his characteristic emotional anthropology, the designer showed a Quintessentially Italian collection, generating as always magic in the realism of his pieces.
The times we are living in generate a yearning to experience again the summer environments we are used to, specifically the need to experience the beach and the natural sunlight, to make a transition between the natural and the artificial. Solid Homme (I.G. @solidhomme_official) explores this need in its Spring-Summer 2022 collection.
Presented through a film in which a diverse group of tourists in monotonous attire on an artificial beach are interrupted by a group of models who break the surrounding monotonous look with their graphic leisurewear and give off an easy, sensual and summery vibe.
The square shapes are crisp and relaxed, with swimsuit-style shorts, casual pants, and layered shirts. Stiff and sturdy, bleached and ombré-effect jackets and jeans are toned down by summery stripes, soft terry sweaters, and Dream Pool Club logo tees, while a comforting breeze sneaks in between street-style tops in grid and mesh fabrics, worn with matching pants and shorts.
The interplay between the artificial and natural environment is reflected in the materials. Beach-like mineral shades are complemented by sunset-like pastels. Bomber jackets and parkas with a lighter texture. T-shirts and mesh pants with military green camouflage motifs reflect the transformation of an urban landscape into beach mode.
Graphic and aquatic distortions similar to sunlight on the sea are seen in black and white windbreakers and cut-out net pieces create an optical illusion of rippling water.