SS24 London Fashion Week: Inside NU SS24 London Fashion Week: Inside NU Vanity Teen 虚荣青年 Lifestyle & new faces magazine

SS24 London Fashion Week: Inside NU

Just off Chiltern Street in Marylebone London

SS24 London Fashion Week: Inside NU SS24 London Fashion Week: Inside NU Vanity Teen 虚荣青年 Lifestyle & new faces magazine

We had the opportunity to interview NU’s creative director, Hunkan Tellioglu, on NU’s design inspiration, creative burnout, and the SS24 NU collection at London Fashion Week

VT: NU will be showcasing the SS24 collection at London Fashion Week, since the founding of NU in 2002, what has been your most memorable milestone in the brand’s history so far?

HT:  The brand has several unforgettable milestones, but surely one of the most important moments have been the opening of our first flagship store in London’s Marylebone. 

Another key moment in NU’s first steps internationally have been our exclusive collection launch for London’s iconic Liberty alongside a window takeover, it was truly an awesome moment for the NU team. 

VT: Which designers and artists past or present inspire the craftsmanship, avant-garde silhouettes, and modern interpretation of masculine and feminine aesthetics exhibited in NU collections?

HT: The ones that I can name from very past will be Giorgio Armani, Vivienne Westwood, and Maison Margiela. The iconic brands that have been making great noise over the past decades such as Yohji Yamamoto and Comme des Garcons shall be named as linked souls. Most recently I’ve found my attention drawn to newer names like Rick Owens and Ann Demeulemeester are the most inspiring ones.

SS24 London Fashion Week: Inside NU SS24 London Fashion Week: Inside NU Vanity Teen 虚荣青年 Lifestyle & new faces magazine

VT: I understand that NU collections are made in-house with a team of creatives who are considered NU family, could you describe the creative process the NU team go through to produce each a collection?

HT: Our starting point may be either an architectural inspiration that we are very impressed by, an artist’s work that may breathe a blow of soulfulness, sometimes it’s an image that comes across unexpectedly but affects us in different dimensions and emotions, or a fabric presented as a result of our R&D work. From this point on, every detail finds each other in the form of small puzzles.

VT: Creative burnout is a prominent challenge in artistic fields. How does your team recharge their creative energy and maintain focus on designing collections?

HT: When we feel that we have slightly strayed from our route or that our focus is impaired in this sense, we immediately go back to the drawing board, to the very beginning. It always leads us to find the necessary state of mind of “not to forget where you came from and our purpose” is very important. This wise humility brings back what you thought you had lost. 

Nu

VT: What did you and the NU team use as inspiration to design the latest SS24 Collection that debuted at London Fashion Week?

HT: Overall, the collection represents an attitude that challenges traditional norms. As we always maintain, we do not believe that masculine and feminine energies can be evaluated separately, at least in the philosophy we represent. Moreover, we find the value of the synergy created by contrasting personalities very important. The fabrics, technical works, prints, and handcrafts express the reflection of this vision in total.

VT: In an ideal world, how would you want NU as a brand to be remembered? What legacy would you like NU to leave behind?

HT: The mood you adopt today just to be remembered in the future, will impose a different kind of anxiety on most parts of your life. However, being remembered for something that is directly proportional to what mark you leave on someone, is truly what is important.

VT: How would you like the newest SS24 NU Collection to be interpreted?

HT: A transformation and change regarding naturalness and returning to the essence.

VT: NU was founded in 2002, what positions did you hold prior that led and aided you to launch NU?

HT: I have been working with textiles since my childhood. I grew up in a creative world and was lucky enough to cross paths with people who breathed the right spirit and vision. I worked in almost in every part of fashion and this created the opportunity to observe each stage. 

SS24 London Fashion Week: Inside NU SS24 London Fashion Week: Inside NU Vanity Teen 虚荣青年 Lifestyle & new faces magazine

VT: In your lifetime, what events and stimuli prompted your interest in fashion and led to you starting a career as a designer?

HT: The person who changed my life and determined who I am today is undoubtedly Nurcin Sebuk, the namesake of the brand and the Head Designer of the brand for many years. She was a master who worked with the world giants for years. She still stands as the one who breathes the spirit and lays the foundations that will make it permanent for NU. Perhaps the most important turning point of the brand and my journey was when we sadly lost her in 2021.

VT: As a creative director, what are your next milestones that you are aiming for?

HT: To carry forward the carefree, niche, and differentiated stance of the brand. This does not mean moving forward, growing, and opening up to new markets. There is a league I know that it belongs to, I want to make sure NU reaches that league.

SS24 London Fashion Week: Inside NU SS24 London Fashion Week: Inside NU Vanity Teen 虚荣青年 Lifestyle & new faces magazine

VT: What facilitates NU to create designs and collections that transcend the fashion trends?

HT: We are not influenced by trends, but we notice and study them. The difference between looking and seeing depends on what you get out of this interaction.

VT: Will such an artistic ethos facilitate NU to thrive in the future?

HT: I am one of those who believe that focusing on success or worrying about it separates people from their natural orbit, I refuse to focus on this concern for this reason.

I see my work as a different way of expressing the values I believe in. For me this is a journey, and it is not possible to predict from today whether it will be easy or not to reach the desired destination.

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