Beyond the polemics, the nonsensical posts and the events that have little or nothing to do with fashion, there are the collections.
Paris confirms itself as the undisputed capital, catalyst for old and new talents, forge of a resilient creativity.
The week starts with the Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello show that offers us a breathtaking glimpse into the fashion that was and can be. It is crepuscular, sensual, consistently Saint Laurent.
The models’ hands swam in little prophylactic aquariums on Botter’s runway are my new obsession.
The collection created by Lisi Herrebrugh and Rushemy Botter, winners of the ANDAM Grand Prize 2022, is an ineffable combination of the Caribbean couture’ spirit together with a strong sustainability consciousness.
The research of materials is wise. The approach is earthly, illuminated.
Acne Studios pastels are unusual and iridescent. Jonny Johansson’s Tess McGill from Working Girl (the movie) is ready to be a bridesmaid at her friend’s wedding with cheeky 80s garments, yes, but free from rhetorical frills.
Rick Owens is Rick Owens. The collection is a tribute to his history and his evolution. It is a symphony played to honor the gods of the temple of Edfu in Egypt. And his ones are goddesses of rebirth who walk sinuously in dresses in precious fabrics with vertiginous cuts and geometric shapes.
Surrealistically Dalilian, Loewe SS23 is a conceptual provocation.
The designer Jonathan Anderson has accustomed us to games of aesthetic ingenuity that perplex, amaze, and make us reflect. The collection explores the fake in nature that becomes functional.
Rei Kawakubo and Comme des Garçons return to Paris with a collection that does not disappoint the wait. Pathos and exasperated drama (in the volumes) exude from a collection that nevertheless shuns sadness and shines with a sophisticated lightness, in my memory, it’s the ideal representation of the Japanese dance-drama Noh: suggestive.
Instead, a ghazal can be a poetic expression of both the pain of loss, separation, and the beauty of love. It is used in Urdu, Hindi, Farsi, Arabic and Turkish, while originating in Arabic and Persian poetry, and used in South Asian and Southwest Asian literature and music.
Ghazal is the SS23 collection of the German brand GmbH. The collection is light, exotic, and pragmatic. The collection is above all a warning to mankind and an ideal embrace to the Pakistani people who have been destroyed has experienced catastrophic floods due to the Climate Crisis, displacing an estimated 33 million people. Vast parts of the country are still under water.
Miu Miu collection is both frivolous and serious, like the personality of its creator Miuccia Prada. Consistently orderly garments with an existentialist look alternate with others’ vainly girly. Transparencies, sequins, and fluorescent colors counterbalance and balance bold lines and rational grays. It is a minimal but essential collection.