The third day of Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2021 season woke up in black and white in a fashion film created by French designer Frank Sorbier, with more than 20 years of experience in the art of sewing and artisan creation. His new collection, Muse en Scène, distanced itself from the burst of color seen in the TV show led by Alber Elbaz for the debut of his new project, AZ Factory, which closed Tuesday. A much more relaxed atmosphere inspired by cinema, paying special attention to details (which have made this Maison indispensable in haute couture during the last decades). Franck Sorbier Haute Couture dispenses with the voice, giving prominence to the music in what is the longest presentation of those presented so far this week, with a duration that exceeds twenty minutes.
Hours later, comes the turn of Fendi Couture, to present what is possibly the most awaited collection of this entire season. And it is that Kim Jones debuted as the new Artistic Director of womenswear, combining it with the Creative Direction of Dior Men where he has not stopped achieving success in the last three years. Virginia Woolf (British as Jones), and more specifically her famous novel Orlando, becomes the star of his first collection, after more than 50 years of Karl Lagerfeld at the helm of the brand. Relax and softness that the fashion show transmits contrasts with the spectacular casting, in which we find Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell, Cara Delevingne, or Bella Hadid. It seems that no one wanted to miss the great event, held in a transparent labyrinth in the form of elegant looks in which the great pattern and the sartorial technique showed by the designer in his career are present. In short, a collection that respects Fendi’s legacy without giving up his own personality.
Viktor&Rolf breaks the calm to bet everything on rhythm, energy, and fashion understood as an enjoyable game. A game that meets all the requirements that Haute Couture demands, which materializes in the form of ruffles, precious stones, a mix of fabrics, risky combinations of saturated colors, and powerful makeup. An elegant “rave” that calls for Couture to be closer to young generations, imbued with fun and vitality. And it is that, as previously demonstrated, Viktor&Rolf defends an idea of style defined by personality, irreverence, and the most absolute freedom.
But if we talk about color, its greatest exponent comes with the last collection of the day, starring Charles de Vilmorin @charlesdevilmorin The guest brand, led by the 24-year-old French designer, is proof that a “New Couture” is possible. And more necessary than ever. Pronounced defender of unisex fashion, his collection is possibly the most theatrical of those presented during this week. A new way of understanding Couture that moves away from luxury, prioritizing creativity and expression instead, as recognized by the creator himself. Multicolored prints, volume, and an enormous amount of visual stimuli make it impossible not to stop to admire his work several times, full of symbolism and subliminal messages in favor of a final abolition of stereotypes and absurd tags.
Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2021 third day is a clear example of where fashion is heading. There are those who strive to preserve tradition, while others are a breath of fresh air in a system that tends to be too conservative at times. Two trends that coexist harmoniously, showing us the unique personality of each brand.