Paloma Wool’s SS27 collection turns two fabrics and one idea into a whole wardrobe, and moves what is usually hidden into the spotlight.
On Sunday, October 4th, during Paris Fashion Week, Paloma Wool presented its Spring/Summer 2027 collection at the Maison de la Chimie. The starting point was strikingly simple: just two fabrics, a golden jacquard and a checked silk. Instead of adding new materials, the collection takes the opposite route, bringing the same two back look after look and changing only what is done with them. Repetition becomes the method, and transformation becomes the result.
This is where the collection gets its strongest idea. We are used to thinking of the lining as a purely functional piece, made to stay hidden inside the garment. Paloma Wool flips that logic: linings gradually become garments of their own. Skirts hang from the waist on thin straps, while transparent layers reveal the structure underneath, as if the construction itself were part of the outfit.
The effect is a collection that feels familiar and new at once. The same shapes return, but they are never quite the same, because each time what’s underneath changes the meaning of what’s on top.
Nothing competes with the construction, which lets the shapes do the talking
The palette, as seen in the show images, stays close to the original fabrics. Gold, olive and sandy neutrals form the backbone, with chocolate brown and a sharp black jacket breaking the warmth. Light blue, sage green and powder pink add softness to the lighter pieces. Nothing competes with the construction, which lets the shapes do the talking.
The soundtrack is part of the design. The show opens with Brat Star’s “Margot Tenenbaum”, and the lyrics don’t stay on the speakers: they are engraved onto bags and extremely low-cut pumps that leave the toes exposed, finished with floral silver toe rings. Brat Star, whose music and energy became part of the process of building the collection, also walks the runway, turning the show into something personal rather than a simple presentation.
For anyone who loves playing with their wardrobe, the lesson is clear: very few elements, used boldly, are enough. A lining can become a skirt, a sheer layer can change a basic outfit, and an accessory can carry an entire song. If there is one idea to steal from this runway right now, it’s that a few fabrics can go a very long way. Stack, shorten, lengthen, and let what usually stays hidden finally be seen: the same materials can become an endless wardrobe of anything but basic pieces.
Giulia Calbi