Continuing with the diverse proposals for this Spring-Summer 22 season, London Fashion Week (I.G. @londonfashionweek) presented on its second day designers who addressed diverse themes such as the embrace of beauty in the gentleness of masculinity, the embodiment of fantasy and folklore as opposed to the illusory online reality, the man-nature relationship through a recyclable multi-functionality, as well as the importance of collaborative and inclusive work with local artisans. For the second day highlights include Shek Leung, MAYYAAGAYEVA, Paolo Carzana, and BÉHEN.
Shek Leung: “Gentle Living”
London-based eponymous brand Shek Leung (I.G. @_shekleung) by multidisciplinary designer Samson Shek Yen Leung showcased its debut collection entitled “Act 1: ‘Gentle Living“, a collection that represents the designer’s interpretation of the power of quiet masculinity amongst men through subtle sensuality.
Inspired by Vilhelm Hammershøi’s paintings, the designer’s self-directed films, and under the ethos of elevating the standard of Asian craftsmanship, the collection involves a lot of handmade details, reflected in the designer’s cover-stitch fabric made completely from scratch, which was reassembled along with the different colors threads as a byproduct of the designer’s color combinations derived from cinematic noise grains from his self-directed research film. Handmade staples on each piece used as decorative elements to give the illusion of being ‘stapled’.
With music being an essential part of the brand, the collection film was made in collaboration with Hong Kong musician Olivier Cong.
MAYYAAGAYEVA: “Burning Wonderland”
Entitled “Burning Wonderland”, London-based menswear and unisex designer MAYYAAGAYEVA (I.G. @mayya.agayeva) presented a collection that explores the connection between human-nature relationship through multi-functional and unisex pieces in muted tones that reflects the brand’s aim of sustainability and ethical manufacturing.
“BURNING WONDERLAND collection rooted in sustainability that truly has the power to challenge fashion norms and to evoke change across the industry this season,”Mayya Agayeva.
Paolo Carzana: “Another World”
Known for its hand-made, naturally-dyed, sustainable, and upcycled materials artful pieces, designer Paolo Carzana (I.G.@carzana) unveiled ”Another World“, a collection based in “craft, nature, and the hinterland of Welsh fairy mythologies” per Vogue.
BÉHEN: Love Begets Love (Amor Com Amor Se Paga)
BÉHEN (I.G. @behen.studio) delved into the folklore of the fishermen’s town of Peniche (Portugal) for its Resort 22 collection. Named “Love Begets Love”, the collection is inspired by the tale of a pair of star-crossed lovers. The collection is a mix between history and old Portuguese craftsmanship, reflected through the use of crochet and embroidery techniques typical of the regions of Madeira and Viana do Castelo, as well as the use of recycled antique fabrics, such as curtains, bedspreads, and bedding from the designer’s grandmother’s archive and collected over a year throughout Portugal, product of all the women who shared their wedding trousseau with the brand.
This collection is the outcome of one year and a half of work towards a better future for all the artisans and embroiders that, much like the old love tales that are passed from generation to generation, cannot be forgotten. Promoting Portuguese crafts and savoir-faire and engaging as many different women and communities as possible is BÉHEN’s mission and way to create fashion with meaning and a little bit of magic.BÉHEN