By Alegria Haro
Paris Men’s Fashion Week SS27 moved into its final days with a calendar that stretched beyond the major houses and into a sharper field of independent labels. After the first part of this series looked at emerging brands from days 1–3, the final stretch of the week offered another set of designers using Paris to clarify their own language.
This second part follows Paris Men’s Fashion Week SS27: Emerging Brands From Days 1–3, turning to Ernest W. Baker, Steven Passaro, HYACYN, ONEONE NINENINE, Post Archive Faction and ssstein. Across these collections, the week moved through polished craft, protected silhouettes, internet-born fashion culture, technical construction and exact material work.
Paris Men’s Fashion Week SS27: The Final Days of the Calendar
The final days of Paris Men’s Fashion Week SS27 unfolded under the pressure of June heat. The most convincing collections worked with that pressure directly: leather close to the body, tailoring pulled into sharper lines, garments built to reveal details through movement.
For emerging and independent designers, Paris remains a demanding stage. A mood disappears quickly here. What lasts is a design instinct repeated through cut, fabric, styling and presentation. Across days 4–6, the strongest work came from brands with enough clarity to make their references feel lived in.
Ernest W. Baker
Ernest W. Baker presented its Spring/Summer 2027 collection in Paris on June 26, with Inês Amorim and Reid Baker returning to the foundations of tailoring, craft and reduction.
The collection cut away excess. Sleeves disappeared from tailored jackets, checks became sharper, and leather gave several looks a more tactile charge. The strongest pieces played with classic menswear codes through small disruptions: a rust polo worn with brown leather trousers and gloves, checked tailoring with a harder line, polished accessories that made the silhouettes feel more deliberate.
Craft remained close to the body. Crochet knitwear, driving gloves and Portuguese braided leather fishing shoes brought texture into the collection, while Swarovski embellishment appeared across two complete looks. Ernest W. Baker’s SS27 proposal worked best when tailoring stopped behaving politely.
Steven Passaro
Steven Passaro introduced A Glimpse for Spring/Summer 2027, bringing the focus back to the body, skin and the controlled act of being seen.
The collection studied exposure in fragments. Tailoring closed around the figure through drawn shoulders, long coats and sculpted hoods that guarded the face. A suit could appear almost bare from the outside, yet carry hand-canvassing, shaping and couture-level work beneath the cloth.
Passaro’s strongest ideas appeared in movement. Godets opened within limits. Pleats released a single fold. Crystal was placed bead by bead where garments parted, along the edge of a hood or the flare of a hem. Dormant fabrics from the reserves of great houses were unpicked and rebuilt, giving the collection a sense of time held inside the garment.
A Glimpse worked through proximity. It asked the viewer to come closer.
ssstein
ssstein offered a quieter counterpoint to the louder energy of the final days. Kiichiro Asakawa built the Spring/Summer 2027 collection around the memory of morning light by a lakeside, translating that calm into a palette of light yellow, almond green, blush pink and powder blue, softened by taupe, greige and reddish brown.
The collection’s strength came from material nuance. A light yellow nylon blouson developed with Olmetex was garment-washed to create a time-worn tone and airy hand. Deerskin was drum-dyed for depth and softness. Cotton-hemp denim was developed through ring-dyed yarns and over-dyeing to create subtle relief between light and shadow.
The silhouettes were more classic and easygoing than usual, but the construction kept the clothes from becoming plain. A mid-length Pontoglio corduroy coat used darts on the sleeves to hold a boxy shape. Washable silk appeared as a shacket and matching shirt. Linen was used for skipper shirts and easy pants. A hand-stitched seven-fold tie closed the collection’s argument for quiet craft: classic wardrobe pieces made precise through texture, colour and touch.
HYACYN
HYACYN brought its New York energy to Paris for the first time with REF 11211, presented on June 26 at Chapelle Sainte-Jeanne-d’Arc. Guests entered an installation of crashed cars, motorcycles and barricades, giving the show the charge of a city scene under pressure.
The New York-based label framed the season around rebellion, but the word was used with personal force. In the collection, rebellion appeared as an insistence on self-definition: the refusal to be reduced, softened or explained by someone else. That idea gave the clothes their direction.
For Spring/Summer 2027, HYACYN introduced slimmer silhouettes and updated proportions while developing the core garments of its wardrobe. Tailoring played a larger role, creating a contrast between structured pieces and looser forms. The result was a more refined version of the brand’s language, still instinctive but more controlled.
ONEONE NINENINE
ONEONE NINENINE, also referred to as 1199, entered Paris with Homework / Graduation, its first runway show in the city. The brand brought a world shaped by Hong Kong, internet culture, music scenes and the visual codes of early online fashion communities. On the runway, that history appeared through graphic tops, loose denim, stage references and a kind of 2010s nostalgia sharpened for a new audience.
The title gave the show a clear narrative. Homework referred to the years of research, development and construction behind the brand. Graduation marked its move into a new dimension: from an internet-native phenomenon into a fashion house built with longer ambitions.
What makes ONEONE NINENINE relevant in the context of Paris Men’s Fashion Week SS27 is the way it reverses the usual path to legitimacy. The brand grew through images, objects, music, community and recognition. Products became familiar before they were widely available. Faces around the brand became part of its language before the runway formalized it.
Post Archive Faction
Post Archive Faction presented its Spring/Summer 2027 collection on June 28, closing the week with a darker and more compressed language. Under Dongjoon Lim, the brand has built its identity around structural experimentation, garment deconstruction and technical formulas that challenge familiar categories of dress.
For SS27, the press text moved through memory, becoming, struggle and heat. It spoke of familiar materials and internalized structures, then of distorting, concealing, revealing and multiplying. Instead of a conventional seasonal statement, PAF gave the collection a psychological temperature.
That intensity suited the physical conditions of the week. Paris in late June was marked by violent heat, and PAF absorbed that atmosphere into its own language of pressure. The collection’s interest in distortion and concealment made the body feel caught between protection and rupture. Clothing became a structure under stress, pierced by movement, memory and the need to keep going.
Paris Men’s Fashion Week SS27: Final Days
Across days 4–6, Paris Men’s Fashion Week SS27 showed how emerging and independent designers are using the calendar to define their own terms. Ernest W. Baker returned to craft through reduction. Steven Passaro treated couture as something intimate and partially hidden. HYACYN brought New York rebellion into its first Paris presentation. ONEONE NINENINE turned internet culture and music community into a runway debut. Post Archive Faction pushed technical construction toward pressure and distortion. ssstein found force in morning colour and material restraint.
The strongest work came from brands that protected their own rhythm. In the final days of the week, menswear became a place for garments that hold time, tension and atmosphere without needing to announce themselves too loudly.