Words by Elena Fabris + Elena Reggioni coordinated by Mira W. at MOODART School of Fashion Communication
On January 24th, during Paris Fashion Week, South Korean designer JUUN.J presented the Fall/Winter 25/26 collection, “COVERUNCOVER,” at the Palais de Tokyo. A graduate of ESMOD Seoul in 1992 and debuting in 2007 with his eponymous label, the designer’s recent work represents a significant expression of conceptual minimalism and sartorial knowledge, playing with varied volumes and textures.
The concept of “Cover” and “Uncover” is central to the collection, serving as metaphors for the interplay between concealment and revelation. This dynamic is reflected in garments that blend different textures in materials suggesting that identity is layered and multifaceted. The duality is also mirrored in the silhouettes, where dramatic
volumes are balanced by more streamlined, tailored lines. Oversized and tight-fitting pieces are paired carefully, creating a harmonious tension between different volumes.
Overall, this collection explores the themes of duality, visual contrasts, and layering.
Let’s break down the key elements, examining how these textures, materials, and designs come together in this collection. One of the most striking features we see on the runway is the clever use of volume, particularly around
the shoulders, hips, and waist. The overall aesthetic revolves around the concept of creating balance, and volume placement plays a crucial role. When it comes to tops, the focus is on exaggerating volume around the shoulders, bringing attention to the upper body and creating a stark contrast with more form-fitting pieces lower down.
For bottoms, the waist is always cinched, drawing the eye to the silhouette’s natural
shape. This accentuation not only highlights the waistline but also enhances the effect
of other pieces that feature layers or voluminous shapes, creating an effortless yet
dynamic figure. The collection features two key types of jeans that show how volume
can be applied differently for an asymmetrical effect. One style combines a high-waisted
pair with a low-rise counterpart that hangs loosely at the left hip, creating an off-center
look that adds depth to the body. The other style turns the jeans inside out, offering a
rough, “deconstructed” appearance with a folded-over upper portion that further
emphasizes the contrast between construction and deconstruction. Both bottoms are
characterized by a vintage wash denim to evoke a sense of nostalgia while
maintaining a modern edge.
Another key element of the collection that we see repetitively is oversized bomber
jackets: some are cinched at the waist to create an elegant peplum effect that
accentuates the hips, while others are cropped to emphasize a more defined waist. This
variety injects versatility into the looks and provides opportunities for balancing
proportions.The use of leather, suede, and fur adds richness to the designs, evoking a tactile
depth, allowing each piece to maintain its individuality while still contributing to the overall harmony of the collection.
The collection juxtaposes traditional and unconventional silhouettes, focusing on both
body shape and movement. The pencil and mermaid skirt create a feminine, figure-
flattering silhouette that hugs the body and flares out at the hem. In contrast, the cargo
pants offer a more utilitarian approach with their relaxed, loose fit. The ruggedness of
these pants contrasts with the formality of the pencil skirt, showcasing the collection’s
ability to blend opposites. Additionally, tailored pieces are layered with denim, combining the polished, structured feel of suits with the more casual, street-style vibe of denim. This creates an intriguing tension between formality
and informality, with the layering adding complexity to the looks. This mix of diverse silhouettes, from dramatic elegance to everyday practicality, creates a cohesive yet versatile wardrobe, offering options that transition seamlessly from high-fashion moments to casual, everyday wear.
The casting choices for this collection emphasize a clean, minimalist aesthetic, with a strong focus on multicultural beauty. While the models’ backgrounds are diverse, they
share one unifying characteristic: sculpted features. Sharp cheekbones, defined
jawlines, and expressive eyes are highlighted through the collection’s subtle beauty
Approach. The hair remains natural, unstyled, and raw, in line with the unpretentious vibe that complements the deconstructed nature of the clothes. Likewise, the makeup is intentionally minimal, with a no-makeup look that enhances the models’ natural beauty
without drawing attention away from the clothing. This approach ensures that the garments remain the focal point, rather than being overshadowed by overly elaborate beauty treatments. The energy of the collection is elevated by a pulsing, rhythmic soundtrack curated by Michel Gaubert, featuring strong beats and subtle hints of bongo-like drums. This high-energy, captivating soundtrack mirrors the fluidity of the garments and contributes to
thecollection’s modern, slightly edgy vibe. The minimal, simple set design, with dark black floors and walls, directs all focus to the clothes, creating an intense, immersive atmosphere. The velvet-like texture of the floor adds a tactile richness, contrasting with the stark simplicity of the walls and further emphasizing the clothes’ movement and texture. The music helps reinforce the collection’s core theme:energetic, and vigorous lifestyle.
The concept of the collection is not entirely new to the audience. One example could be
JUUN.J’s previous S/S 2025 collection, where he also explored the themes characterized by voluminous bomber jackets, long flared skirts, and oversized leather jackets making their way down the runway. Denim, leather, and
cargo pieces are reimagined for warmer weather, offering a lighter take on these typically heaviermaterials. The emphasis is on accentuated shoulders, with short-sleeve tops and outerwear that draw attention to the waist, while long legs are exposed, reinforcing a bold and dynamic silhouette. Overall, this recent collection demonstrates a sophisticated mastery of volume, silhouette, and material texture, creating fashion that feels both intricate and wearable, easy to incorporate into everyday outfits. It wouldn’t surprise me to see these pieces worn on the streets of major international cities like New York, Paris, or Tokyo, where the blend of high fashion and street sensibility is pervasive.
