By Devincan Türkmen
With the Metropolitan Museum of Art dedicating a Costume Institute exhibition to John Galliano’s work, his career is once again at the center of fashion’s biggest conversation. Ahead of John Galliano: Horizons, here are 10 runway looks that deserve a place inside the exhibition.
After years of speculation dating all the way back to 2023, the Metropolitan Museum of Art officially confirmed on July 31 »John Galliano: Horizons« as the Costume Institute’s Spring 2027 exhibition. The retrospective will be the first museum exhibition dedicated to the full breadth of Galliano’s career, bringing together “garments, accessories, sketches, toiles, research books, and archival materials” spanning more than four decades of work.
While many have welcomed Galliano’s return to fashion, the announcement of a dedicated Met exhibition has inevitably reignited conversations about how museums should present artists whose creative achievements exist alongside serious personal misconduct. For a closer look at the exhibition and the controversy surrounding it, read our companion piece: John Galliano Takes Over the Met Gala 2027—and Sparks Controversy
Curated by Andrew Bolton, the show will unfold to tell the designer’s story across three thematic chapters: »Bearings« confronts the rupture created by Galliano’s struggles, addressing his addiction, abusive behavior and personal downfall, and ultimately his departure from Dior. »Horizons« explores the recurring historical, artistic and literary references that have shaped his collections past and present, while »Atlas of Transformation« offers a rare look inside his creative process through sketches, research books and other artifacts.
Together, they promise to answer a question that extends far beyond his fashions: How should extraordinary artistic achievement be understood alongside ethical responsibility? And with four decades of work to choose from, even an exhibition as ambitious as this is bound to leave out someone’s favorite.
Before the exhibition opens its doors next spring, here are ten creations we’d most like to see inside the Metropolitan Museum of Art, as together they tell the story of Galliano’s unparalleled career.
1. Les Incroyables, 1984
Designed for his 1984 Central Saint Martins graduate collection, Les Incroyables announced the arrival of one of Britain’s most promising young designers. The collection earned Galliano immediate industry recognition, launching a career that would redefine couture for decades to come.
2. John Galliano, Spring 1994 Ready-To-Wear
For Spring 1994, Galliano imagined the story of a Russian princess fleeing her former life in search of self-discovery. Kate Moss became the collection’s defining image after Galliano personally choreographed her runway appearance, instructing her not to walk but to run. As she gathered her silk gown and charged down the runway, the cascading ruffles showed their true beauty, sending the industry into a frenzy over Galliano.
3. John Galliano, Fall 1994 Ready-To-Wear
Working with an almost nonexistent budget, Galliano famously bought only black fabric because it was the most affordable, while minutes before the show hairstylist Julien d’Ys transformed sheets of plastic into sculptural headpieces. Worn by Christy Turlington, this finale look perfectly captures that ingenuity: a liquid pink bias-cut gown layered beneath an oversized black coat, finished with a striking yellow headpiece and clouds of organza at the hem.
On the strength of the two collections, Galliano caught the attention of Bernard Arnault, who was in the process of reshaping LVMH’s fashion houses through a new generation of designers…
4. Givenchy, Fall 1996 Couture
Galliano’s appointment at Givenchy finally gave him access to the couture ateliers and craftsmanship his imagination had long called for. Rather than marking a new beginning, his debut collection felt like the full realization of ideas he had been refining for over a decade. While his debut is remembered for its opulent evening wear, look 33 worn by Karen Mulder reveals Galliano’s quieter side. Precise tailoring still meets playful eccentricity, creating a silhouette that feels unmistakably his own.
5. Christian Dior, Spring 1997 Couture
After a single couture season at Givenchy, Galliano was appointed Creative Director of Christian Dior. Rather than imitate the house’s founder, his debut reinterpreted Dior’s romantic codes through his own sensibility. Inspired by Chinese export shawls, this look paired delicate embroidery with bias-cut draping, later worn by Nicole Kidman to the 1997 Academy Awards, becoming one of the most influential red carpet looks of the decade.
6. Christian Dior, Fall 2003 Ready-To-Wear
Long before fashion began critically reexamining cultural appropriation, Galliano fused references to Japan and China with bondage accessories, corseted silhouettes and a vision of futuristic, almost robotic femininity. Kabuki-inspired makeup by longtime collaborator Pat McGrath completed the look, resulting in one of the most visually uncompromising collections of the early 2000s.
7. Christian Dior, Spring 2004 Couture
Galliano’s fascination with history reached new heights in Spring 2004. Inspired by Ancient Egypt, the opening look paired gilded mirrorwork with monumental proportions, immediately immersing the audience in a world of pharaohs, temples, sphinxes and haute couture.
8. Christian Dior, Spring 2007 Couture
Marking Galliano’s tenth anniversary at Dior, his Spring 2007 Couture collection culminated in the unforgettable Origami-Geisha–Bride. Worn by Shalom Harlow, the monumental finale gown combined razor-sharp, architectural folds with layers of sculptural silk and intricate couture embroidery, bringing the collection’s Madama Butterfly–inspired narrative to a breathtaking close
9. Maison Margiela, Fall 2015 Ready-To-Wear
Following his departure from Dior and years away from the fashion industry, Galliano’s appointment at Maison Margiela marked one of fashion’s most anticipated returns. While his 2015 Artisanal debut carried enormous emotional weight, it was his Fall 2015 Ready-to-Wear follow-up that truly signalled his arrival at the house. What makes Look 28 so compelling isn’t a single statement piece, but Galliano’s instinct for combining seemingly incompatible textures, silhouettes and beauty into a remarkably cohesive whole. Cheetah-print, python panels, shimmering paillette embellishments, pinstriped tailoring and transparent PVC heels with elongated ankle straps are brought together alongside exaggerated hair and makeup that feel familiar, revealing a designer whose brilliance lies in making the unexpected feel entirely natural.
10. Maison Margiela, Spring 2024 Couture
No list of Galliano’s defining work would be complete without Maison Margiela Artisanal 2024. What became the culmination of four decades of storytelling ultimately served as his farewell collection for the house. The whimsical silhouettes, unapologetic drama and extraordinary craftsmanship reminded the industry what a fashion show could be beyond the algorithm: a fully immersive work of art. Look 21 distilled everything Galliano has always done best, transforming history, emotion and meticulous artistry into a single unforgettable silhouette.