A horse race in Siena. A night out in Paris. At first, they couldn’t seem further apart. But at Pucci, they meet.
For FW26, Camille Miceli digs into one of Emilio Pucci‘s lesser-known obsessions: Il Palio, Siena’s ancient horse race, where the city’s contrade come together in a spectacle of competition, celebration and tradition. It was a major source of inspiration for Pucci as early as 1957, when he created his original Palio collection. It was colourful, with monumental shapes and, of course, geometric experimentation. Some of those elements remain. In FW26, they return as pulsating prints, animal motifs – but not in the way you’d expect – and deep, rich colour. The Valdimontone contrada, the geometric landscape of Dune and the irregular zigzags of Drago are transformed into playful, contemporary shapes.
Then the scene shifts to Paris after dark.
Quilted matelassé jacquard, flared trumpet trousers with a touch of ’70s influence and tights that elongate the leg bring a distinctly nocturnal energy to the collection. The silhouettes feel made for movement – tight where they need to be, fluid where they can be. An antidote to the beige moments of now. We need more of this.
Shot by Carlijn Jacobs, the campaign follows Grace Elizabeth into that world of after-hours glamour. She brings a particular kind of sexiness to the collection: confident, independent and completely in control of the night. The clothes move with her rather than holding her back. It’s the kind of freedom that has always felt central to Pucci.
Pants are tight, the password is Pucci, the movement never stops.
