Think Hollywood after dark, afternoons by the pool and a wardrobe that doesn’t try too hard. That’s where Antonin Tron takes Balmain for Pre-Spring 2027.
After making his debut with the house for Fall-Winter 2026, Antonin Tron continues to explore what makes Balmain, Balmain, but with a bit different attitude this time. The glamour is still there, the animal prints haven’t gone anywhere, and the draping is as dramatic as ever. The difference is that everything feels a little less dressed up.
For his first resort collection, Tron looks towards California, from the glamour of old Hollywood to its more relaxed approach to getting dressed. The 1981 film Body Heat, starring Kathleen Turner as a femme fatale, was among his references. There’s a similar mix of sensuality and nonchalance running through the collection: clothes that could take you from a sunny afternoon by the pool to somewhere considerably less innocent after dark.
The campaign plays into that fantasy, too. Set around California homes, gardens, swimming pools and the beach, it has the feeling of a summer that never really needs to end. The models look like they’ve just stepped out of someone’s house, rather than arrived for a carefully planned fashion shoot. And that’s quite fitting for a collection that wants to make luxury feel a little more effortless.
Less noise, more Balmain glamour
Animal prints have always been part of Balmain’s visual language, and after SS27 they’re back for Pre-Spring 2027 as well in snakeskin, tortoiseshell and abstract floral variations. But they’re not as loud as before. Instead of letting the prints do all the talking, Tron balances them with softer colours, delicate fabrics and more considered styling. The result feels chic without trying too hard – which, let’s be honest, is sometimes harder to achieve than making a statement.
The colour combinations are another highlight. Purple and yellow, different shades of brown, muted pinks and earthy tones give the collection a personality of its own. Some pieces even play with colour fading into transparency, a detail that also appears in the heels. The gradient effect, moving from solid colour into a see-through finish, feels like a continuation of the footwear direction we’ve been seeing around the Spring-Summer 2027 collection.
Draping remains one of Tron’s strongest signatures. Dresses wrap around the body, gathering at the waist or twisting into asymmetrical shapes, with lengths ranging from mini to floor-skimming. Some are almost entirely defined by the way the fabric falls, while others combine semi-transparent jacquard with more structured details. They’re sensual, but not overly complicated.
Playing with proportions
There’s a clear silhouette running through the collection: wide shoulders, tiny hips and a more defined upper body. Tailored jackets give the looks structure, while well-cut skirts and high-waisted trousers keep the proportions sharp. Smaller bra tops bring a little more skin into the picture, often paired with pieces that cover up much more.
A cropped cardigan over a tiny bra top, a long printed skirt, a structured jacket worn open – nothing feels too precious. Even the eveningwear has a certain ease to it, with draped dresses that look just as good in the middle of the afternoon as they would at a late-night event.
There’s a bit of a wardrobe fantasy here, but not the kind that requires a completely different life to wear it. Fur, swimwear, printed skirts, sharp tailoring and barely-there tops all can be found here. It’s glamorous, but it doesn’t feel like it’s trying to prove it.
With Pre-Spring 2027, Antonin Tron is getting more comfortable with Balmain’s codes and finding ways to loosen them up. The house’s signature drama is still present, but there’s less emphasis on dressing for the occasion and more on making the occasion happen. A little Hollywood, a little California, and very much Balmain.
