Miu Miu has always been one of those shows where you don’t really need to sit down afterwards and figure out what it was “about.” You see a look, you want it.
For Spring/Summer 2027, Miuccia Prada keeps doing exactly that — moving between school uniform, sportswear, tailoring, denim, leather and sparkle without ever letting one idea settle for too long.
The show took place in a setting that immediately felt a little school-ish. Brown seats lined the runway while the floor was covered in purple, almost like an indoor PE court. It made sense once the clothes started coming out: tennis skirts, running sneakers, sporty tops, drawstring waists and pieces that looked like they had been pulled from a very strange version of a school wardrobe. The collection itself played with the same mix, putting sportswear next to tailoring and evening pieces next to clothes that looked completely ordinary.
ABOUT THE CASTING
Of course, there was Gigi Hadid, but Miu Miu also brought actors and unexpected faces onto the runway. Noah Jupe made his runway debut, while Olivia Colman walked her first show in a black leather blazer and matching pencil skirt. The internet immediately decided she was everyone’s favourite geography teacher, which honestly feels quite accurate. She absolutely nailed it, though.
The casting fits the collection because there isn’t really one Miu Miu woman here. There are people in blazers and people in running shoes, people in tiny tops and people in very proper skirts. Miuccia Prada herself described the idea as being interested in “people now” and in elevating the sportswear everyone already wears.
The opening looks are full of checks: Scottish skirts, checked blazers, trousers and layers of slightly mismatched patterns. The styling makes them feel less like a perfect uniform and more like someone has taken pieces from different wardrobes and decided they somehow belong together. A cropped sports top appears under tailoring. A knee-length skirt gets paired with sneakers. Drawstrings and visible underwear interrupt otherwise polished looks.
The underwear is especially interesting because it doesn’t just look like underwear accidentally showing. The clothes seem to be designed around it. Waistbands are pulled low, layers overlap and pieces are deliberately built to reveal what is underneath. It looks funtastic.
Then comes the denim.
Miu Miu’s new collaboration with Wrangler reworks the American brand’s vintage jeans with the collection’s recurring crossed lacing, turning something incredibly familiar into something that feels very Miu Miu. The lacing also appears across skirts and other pieces, so by the time the jeans arrive, it already feels like part of the collection’s visual language rather than a random collaboration.
The colour palette was another highlight. Navy, different shades of rose, orange, red, light green, yellow and purple all appear, with the purple runway making the brighter colours feel even more connected to the idea of sport. The collection never sticks to the obvious colours of sportswear, though. The combinations feel much more considered — even when the clothes themselves are deliberately a little awkward. Prada has said that the colours were intentionally pushed away from typical sportswear shades and made more elegant.
And then the sparkle starts.
At first it’s a detail. A little here, a little there. Then suddenly there is a sparkling bra over a T-shirt, crystal-covered pieces, glittering skirts and evening looks. It slowly takes over the collection without feeling like it has suddenly changed direction. Even the tennis-inspired closing looks get pulled into it.
This is my favourite part of the collection: something new keeps happening.
First it’s the lacing and sneakers. Then leather enters. Then the retro prints become stronger. Then come the halter dresses with straps wrapping around the neck, followed by crushed, almost paper-like fabrics, stripes and layers. Then everything starts getting more extravagant with sparkle, shiny leather and crazier patterns — before the collection quiets down again with simpler one-colour looks decorated with just a few sparkling stripes.
There are also oversized sunglasses with translucent brown lenses, geometric prints that feel pulled from another decade, colourful snake-effect leather jackets and plenty of pieces that sit somewhere between sporty and incredibly polished. The references jump from the ’70s to the ’90s and early 2000s, but they don’t feel like a nostalgia exercise.
And thankfully, there is no collection-wide obsession with sheer fabric this time. After seeing transparency everywhere this season, Miu Miu manages to make exposed skin feel interesting through cropped sports tops, low waists, open necklines and underwear instead.
Miu Miu is very good at making clothes that shouldn’t necessarily work together feel like exactly what you want to wear. A checked blazer with a sports top. A tennis skirt with a sparkling bra. A vintage Wrangler jean with lacing. A running shoe with a polished skirt.
You don’t really need an explanation.
You just feel it.
