Moschino SS27 marks the debut of Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo, who bring their irreverent, experimental spirit to the house. Between real-life casting, exaggerated silhouettes, bold colour and playful irony, the duo looks beyond nostalgia to rediscover what has always made Moschino provocative.
Moschino SS27 brought real life onto the runway (quite literally). For their first collection at the house, Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo blurred the boundary between fashion spectacle and everyday life, sending models through a crowd of ordinary people moving in the opposite direction. The collection followed the same idea, presenting an urban wardrobe for everyday life, brought to life through bold colours, exaggerated silhouettes and Moschino’s signature humour.
The show marked the beginning of a new chapter for the house. Messina and Rizzo made their debut as Moschino’s creative directors, succeeding Adrian Appiolaza and bringing with them a creative language that feels particularly compatible with the brand’s DNA.
The pair founded Sunnei in 2014, building the Milanese label around experimentation, irony and a persistent questioning of fashion’s conventions. In that sense, their appointment at Moschino feels almost instinctive. Long before them, Franco Moschino had built an entire house around a similarly irreverent approach to the industry.
When he founded Moschino in 1983, Franco understood that fashion could say something serious without ever taking itself too seriously. His slogans, visual puns and provocations were funny, but rarely meaningless: behind them was a pointed critique of luxury, consumerism and the fashion system itself. He made criticism chic, humorous and, crucially, wearable. Moschino laughed at fashion from within fashion.
It was therefore significant that, upon their appointment, Messina and Rizzo spoke of preserving the house’s pop vocabulary while reclaiming it as a critical and provocative tool. Their intention was not to imitate Franco or reproduce the most recognisable codes of the archive, but to recover the attitude behind them. To reinvent rather than repeat.
Now, with the spotlight on their first runway for the house, it is time to see whether they have delivered on that promise.
The answer began with the staging itself. Around a hundred people cast from the streets of Milan became part of the show, walking against the flow of the models. Rather than serving merely as a theatrical backdrop, their presence collapsed the usual separation between runway and street. It could be read as a playful challenge to fashion’s traditionally exclusive glamour, replacing the fantasy of an inaccessible world with something more democratic and grounded in everyday life.
The clothes followed the same logic. Messina and Rizzo proposed an urban wardrobe for “real people,” although, this being Moschino, their idea of reality naturally came with a certain eccentricity.
And Moschino would hardly be Moschino without colour. Vivid shades injected the collection with the house’s characteristic pop energy, with saturated blocks appearing alongside quieter, more neutral tones. Some of the strongest silhouettes emerged through skirts and dresses, where dramatically exaggerated hips recalled the proportions of the 18th-century pannier. Removed from their aristocratic origins and inserted into a contemporary urban wardrobe, those historical volumes became playful rather than precious.
Humour also slipped naturally into the accessories. A small, rigid black-cat-shaped bag, casually carried over the shoulder, transformed a familiar object into something charmingly absurd, precisely the kind of visual joke Moschino has long known how to turn into an object of desire.
There was also an unexpected note of optimism. “GOOD LUCK” appeared across a T-shirt, continuing a message Messina and Rizzo had already introduced at Vogue World: Milano 2026, where filmmaker Carolina Cavalli wore a Moschino look inspired by Italian journalist Oriana Fallaci, accompanied by a green bag bearing the same words.
Ultimately, Messina and Rizzo seem to have understood that bringing Moschino forward does not require leaving Franco Moschino behind. Instead of recreating his world, they have begun to ask what his way of thinking might look like in the contemporary city. The humour remains, as do the colour, exaggeration and irreverence, but they are filtered through a language of their own. The result feels familiar without becoming nostalgic, eccentric without turning into caricature, and respectful of the past without being trapped by it. If the promise was to reinvent rather than repeat, SS27 feels like a convincing first step.
Moschino SS27 Images
