Helmut Lang‘s Pre-Fall 2024 collection offers a glimpse into the slowly unfolding vision of Peter Do for the brand. Amidst the chaos of daily life, the collection brings the concept of a modular, simple, and sexy wardrobe to fruition. The collection showcases models wearing each look on the streets of New York, from Chinatown to Dumbo and Industry City to Columbia Heights, engaging in everyday activities like eating hot dogs and using ATMs. “I want to show people the many ways of dressing… We are marking Helmut Lang’s attitude in New York,” explained Peter Do.
Balancing between the brand’s archives and the contemporary moment, Peter Do continues to evolve the foundations of Helmut Lang: remixed tailoring, utilitarian garments, oversized white shirts, slim black pants, and blazers with back straps. The collection’s versatility, a Peter Do signature, is achieved through layering: a transparent white tee with elbow patches over a tank top, a brown dress with a flowing white hem (actually a lining that can be worn separately), and knit sleeves (inspired by Helmut Lang archives) that can be paired with a sleeveless sweater or layered over anything. The leather biker jacket can transform into a vest, and pants can be zipped into shorts or shifted from straight to flared cuts.
The designer also continued with the raw denim from the previous collection, featuring structured jeans with external pockets and casual hand-painted styles made in Los Angeles, and introduced a range of evening styles, from a white knitted pareo to a black ribbed chunky sweater skirt with side slits. A pair of well-tailored black trousers paired with a button-down shirt adds a 90s retro appeal to the collection.
