There is something rock’n’roll-ish about Donnatella Versace, perhaps it’s the blonde platinum hair that suggest that she could have been like Courtney Love if her love for fashion had not taken over; or maybe it’s the way she walks, she doesn’t take steps, she takes strides — which is exactly what she has been doing ever since her brother passed away. A small step for Donatella, but a leap for Milan fashion week so far; more diversity on the runway and less elitism.
The Versace runway was perhaps Donatella’s way of painting the world right now with the political power play happening: grey and cold. But as Meryl Streep quoted Carrie Fishier last week at the Golden Globes, it seems like Donatella took her broken heart and made it into art.
The Matrix has landed in Milan! If there was to be a reboot of the infamous sci-fi film, then Versace should offer to sponsor it because Donatella’s boys were suited and booted — giving the phrase a new meaning, she explored what it means to be suited and booted in different tribes and subcultures for men. For the CEO next door, Donatella has predicted symmetrical (perfectly tailored, nonetheless) blazers and overcoats creating a three-piece suit illusion.
And for the men hopping in and out of trains, on and off bikes is the brown suede coat with fur trimmings over school-boy shirt and tie layered with a beige jumper — and the leather jackets to make entering and exiting in the rain a bit more stylish.
For the music fans of the brand, Donatella had plenty of flannel trousers, jumpers, bombers, jackets and caps in black and white and red all over for the Nirvana fans; whilst for her friends who sing about her (Drake and Kanye West), she took pieces out of their wardrobe and Versace-ified them: hoodies, trainers and puffer jackets (which are looking to be the trend this season with Dolce & Gabbana kicking it off).
Overall, there was a collective identity shared between all these men: the slit at the bottom of their trousers and the shades of Autumn/Winter 17 according to Donatella: black, beige, grey, maroon, red and white. “This is a collection about the different tribes of Versace men, and the powerful positivity that can happen when men from different places, different cultures join together,” Donatella said in an Instagram post about the collection. Fashion is the medium in which Donatella expresses her politics.