ODOR presents its Fall/Winter 2021/22 collection which began with the study of the Russian theatre artists of the late XIX-early XX centuries, particularly with the scenography of Natalia Goncharova for Diaghilev’s famous ballets Russian Seasons.
“Abstract motifs of the ornaments found in Goncharova’s certain sketches had been supplemented with the techniques of creating theatrical costumes of that time – applications and fabric inlays. Following the brand’s DNA, this collection once again adapted recycled materials, used vintage Richelieu lace, and an authentic cut of traditional shirts from different Russian provinces. These two trends were brought together not by coincidence: while bohemian life flourished and Diaghilev’s «Russian Seasons» had been triumphantly received in Paris, the traditional clothing was still worn in Russian villages. This combination of «playing Russian», so-called «Russian exotics» revealed in the art of Russian ballet and the way this exotic used to be a reality for most of the Russian Empire, became the main source of inspiration for me. Especially for the look book shooting, I created painting modules – a reference to the scenery of mobile theaters, which were manually changed during the performance”.
Nikita Kalmykov, designer and creative director of ODOR
The collection includes amazing wool pieces, different types of cotton and wet silk, vintage buttons, and ribbons. Some fabrics like mohair knitwear, cashmere, and silk velvet are presented for the first time. Hats, bags, and headscarves are some of the accessories presented for the first time by the brand. The headwear includes a cap made of Afghan broadtail (karakul), a woolen beanie hat lined with wild silk, and a woolen four cones hat inspired by the traditional headdress of northern people. They are complemented with removable colored garters. Headscarves and bags are made in the patchwork style as a reference to handicraft techniques. The color-blocking technique is used for the outerwear lining and accessories that remind of Suprematism.
Fashion and set design by Nikita Kalmykov @nikitinio, photography by Nicholas Efimtsev @efimtsev_nicholas, styling by Ksenia Proskuryakova @ksenyapro, makeup and hair by Kate Mur @muakatemur, models Fedor @teo.feodor, Ivan @vnchurakov, and Diana @dianaviivana, producer Alexey Iordanov @jardanidze NOB Agency @nobagency.
