The Harmony of Existence and Nonexistence
In his SS24 collection, Kunihiko Morinaga contemplates the coexistence of “Existence” and “Nonexistence.” He builds upon his exploration of Umwelt – the ‘surround-world’ – presenting a series that is as much a philosophical reflection as it is a feat of technological innovation.
ACT I: Birth of Color from the Invisible
Morinaga employs ANVISUAL photochromic technology to craft a series of transparent “empty” garments from environmentally friendly photochromic PVC. These pieces, initially invisible, transform under ultraviolet lights into vibrant, multicolored silhouettes, resembling couture bubble wrap filled with air. The contours are traced with graphic taped seams made of denim, cotton, and Ultrasuede® in contrasting colors.
Bodysuits, crafted from Fairtrade cotton developed with Toyota Tsusho Inc., display an all-over pattern of miniature AZ monogram logos, reminiscent of a chameleon’s skin. The looks are completed with a variety of INVISIBLE PVC accessories, including inflatable earrings, bracelets, balaclavas, gauntlet-style gloves, and immaculate white 3D-printed flats. A futuristic line of shield sunglasses, designed in collaboration with X8, adds a touch of the Sixties to the ensemble.
ACT II: The Relativity of Color Perception
Returning to the concept of Umwelt, Morinaga manipulates the lighting environment to showcase the relativity of color perception, highlighting how colors shift according to varying environmental factors. Through the use of hyperspectral color control technology developed by NTT, the garments undergo a visual metamorphosis, exhibiting “metamerism” where similar colors change under different light sources.
Like the skin of a cephalopod, the surfaces of the garments reflect transitions in mood, oscillating between subtlety and explosive color shifts. The collection aligns technological innovation with handcraft, featuring sculptural looks in hand-embroidered swirling strips of photochromic PVC, tailored pantsuits, and matching sets made of doily-style patchworks of photochromic PVC squares. These pieces illuminate like kaleidoscopes, adapting to different light sources before reverting to their initial invisible state.
The Cycle of Life and the Rebirth of Color
Morinaga’s collection immerses us in a poetic yet alien universe, embodying the philosophical parable of the coexisting “Existence” and “Nonexistence.” The cycle of life is depicted through the transient nature of colors, symbolizing the inevitable fate of all living organisms. As colors disappear, they reveal the existence of the INVISIBLE and the colorless, hinting at a rebirth of colors in the cycle of life.
This season, Anrealage has pioneered the use of next-generation phthalate-free plasticizers in developing exclusive environmentally-friendly photochromic PVC, ensuring that the creations are safe to wear, and align with the brand’s commitment to sustainability.
A Symphony of Innovation and Philosophical Reflection
Kunihiko Morinaga’s SS24 collection stands as a testament to the harmonious blend of innovative technology and philosophical contemplation. It invites viewers to reflect on the transient nature of existence, the relativity of color perception, and the harmonious dance of the visible and the invisible. Through this exploration, Morinaga grants us a glimpse into a world where colors fade and bloom, symbolizing the ever-revolving cycle of life.